2015 FINAL DRIVE

[T6pilot]

Approaching my 600 mile break in service, having had several other 1200's in the past, rear wheel always removed to drain final drive
I noticed on the 15 what appears to be a drain plug on the bottom and a filler on back side of final drive. Has BMW finally got it right? I hope so, if this is the case is 180 mm still the correct amount of 75-90
Thanks for your help
Jim

[Levisp]

Yes and Yes. Its now very easy to change the final drive oil.

[T6pilot]

Levisp
Thank you for info

[Levisp]

If you decide to do an oil change here are a some considerations.


1) I always do oil changes after a good run when the oil is hot.
2) Remove filler first just in case you cannot get it off. Do not want to be in a position where you have drained the oil, to find you cannot remove the filler.
3) Examine the O-ring and crush washer if they look OK then I see no problem using them one more time. Replace with new next time.
4) The drain plug has a recessed magnet to collect muck. Clean and check.
5) The old oil will look quite dark and dirty looking. This I'm told is to do with the assembly oil used at the factory. Apparently after a couple of changes the oil should come out clean. This I have not experienced yet.
6) Fill with ONLY 180 ml of oil. Do not overfill.

[Budman]

Its so simple that I will change mine every time I change the engine oil. be sure that you get a new crush washer for the top plug and new "o" ring for the bottom plug.

[Spencert231]

:-*  Once again the forum has alerted me to stuff I am not aware of as this is my first shaft drive bike, thanks.

[richardbd]

I'm always impressed by you spanner bashers.  I'm afraid I just ride 'em.  I have only limited interest in how they work - only whether they do!  I have no time and little inclination to mend them.  My two favourite tools are a credit card and an AA card.


As Edmund Blackadder said "I am one of those people who is quite happy to wear cotton but I have no idea how it actually works"...

[Catfunt]

I can understand those that just want to ride em - thats great. Being a bit sad, I love tinkering so whenever I do a engine oil/filter change I do the gearbox and FD too. I also check my valve clearances way too often but because its so easy, I do it anyway :-)

[guest2360]

Must admit, I'm with Richard. Hand the card over when its needed, mileage or time.

[Doug C]

Great information, can anyone help with the torque values for the drain and fill plugs?


Thanks in advance,  Doug

[Levisp]

Great information, can anyone help with the torque values for the drain and fill plugs?


Thanks in advance,  Doug

For LC bike both are 20 Nm.

[Doug C]

Thank you Sir!!

[T6pilot]

Just got around to first service
Added Dimple drain plugs to engine and final drive
Factory final drive oil reeked, smelled really bad
One question anyone know why BMW changed filter number between 1600 and new RT they look identical, hope I didn't screw things up by using the -01 prefectures over the -02
I have a case of the earlier filters

[guest2360]

The part number might change for two reasons.  Different supplier or different internals I would think on a brand new bike it would be prudent to use the right one.

[David.]

From what I can see, the K1600 (K48) & R1200 (K26) pre-LC Models share the same Oil Filter & Part No. 11427673541.

The LC RT (K52) Oil Filter Part No. is 11427721779.

This thread from BMWSportTouring, http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... ge=2,  also suggests that the Oil Filters are indeed different.

A Guy swapped some K26 Filters for K52 ones at his Dealer & another says the K52 ones are slightly larger.