David. wrote:
Once bought some EBC front pads for a 2007 RT, fitted them, they were useless, threw them away.
On this subject, I agree, fit OEM brake pads.
I've fitted EBC Double H sintered pads on my 11rt with no issues whatsoever? Just as good as OEM pads (IMO) without the 'Branding' price tag, Don't tell anyone though, there's a lot on here who are very brand loyal :))
Look up Double H and they tell you they are designed for heavy cruisers. I would advise anyone considering them to look up the price of replacement discs and them reconsidered.
Also note from your previous posts you have no recommended tyres on. Wonder what oil you use.
Last edited by guest2360 on Fri Feb 17, 2017 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
RTman10 wrote:
Look up Double H and they tell you they are designed for heavy cruisers. I would advise anyone considering them to look up the price of replacement discs and them reconsidered.
Also note from your previous posts you have no recommended tyres on. Wonder what oil you use.
I'm not sure where you get the information that Double H Sintered pads are designed for 'Heavy Cruisers' as it doesn't mention that on the EBC web site? Like I said 'Theirs a lot on here who are very brand loyal' and will give unsubstantiated horror stories to back their loyalty up. [size=78%] The tyre you speak of 'Michelin Pilot Road' non GT model is doing fine by the way, 400 miles now with no signs of self destruction, excessive wear or irregularities. I'll keep my eye on them just like I would with any tyre's and report my findings? I can't see any problems though as they are rated (73W) for bikes up to 365kg which the RT fits into.[/size]
You wonder what oil I use? Sunflower obviously!
I'm not very brand loyal and would fit anything that will do the job. With Brembo callipers you should have no issue fitting any pads that will work. On our 2010 RT Blood bike, we fit not BMW pads (in fact we get our pads from Sherlock in Devon) they are fine and a lot cheaper than the BMW ones. Tyres wise I would always fit a recommended tyre, just in case you have an accident. The insurance company would maybe check if the bike had the correct tyres on, anything to get out of a claim. i have no first hand knowledge of this, just something I read elsewhere so its IMHO
Depends who's site you look at as to what's recommended. Some also show them suitable for the S1000RR. But it's a free world. In mine though things like brakes and tyres are two vital components to keep you safe(er). Nothing to do with brand loyalty. It's difficult to argue that something that can be half the price is a better product no matter who makes it.
I am here to say EBC will be gone in half the miles the OEM went. So what did you gain? Half price, change twice as often, does not make sense.
Run what you like and it has nothing to do with brand loyalty. It has to do with longevity, fitment with no worries, and correct compound for the rotor material.
How many miles on your OEM pads? Write it down and look at it because you are not going to see that mileage from EBC.
Off Topic : As far as tires you should be using the rated tires for your bike, period. Brand is opinion, but weight/load rating and speed rating need to be OEM spec. These are heavy bikes, with a lot of motor, can carry more weight than we probably should, and can corner like it's on rails, and brakes that can haul you down in a big hurry so your tires need to be rated for that and up to the task.
LAF wrote:
I am here to say EBC will be gone in half the miles the OEM went. So what did you gain? Half price, change twice as often, does not make sense.
Run what you like and it has nothing to do with brand loyalty. It has to do with longevity, fitment with no worries, and correct compound for the rotor material.
How many miles on your OEM pads? Write it down and look at it because you are not going to see that mileage from EBC.
Off Topic : As far as tires you should be using the rated tires for your bike, period. Brand is opinion, but weight/load rating and speed rating need to be OEM spec. These are heavy bikes, with a lot of motor, can carry more weight than we probably should, and can corner like it's on rails, and brakes that can haul you down in a big hurry so your tires need to be rated for that and up to the task.
Thankyou for your input, it has been duly noted
EBC are a good brand of pads, many race teams use them. Just because they don't last as long, doesn't mean they are no good. Its all about what material is used, depending on the pad, they may be softer so provide more brake bite, possibly warm up quicker etc. BMW pads will possibly be harder material. I would bet BMW don't make their own pads. If you buy like for like longevity should be similar, but price maybe different.
This is like oil, it doesn't have to be manufacturer supplied, its the spec that matters, they don't make their own, someone makes it for them.
I used to use EBC pads on my race cars and yes they wore quicker, but their performance was superior to other pads. Same with other higher spec pads. Its not just about longevity 8) It does make sense to change more, if performance is better
"BEWARE OF UNUSUALLY CHEAP "BREMBO OFFERS", AS BREMBO'S PRODUCTS ARE NOW WIDELY COUNTERFEITED.
AT HPS WE GUARANTEE ALL OUR BREMBO COMPONENTS AND PADS ARE GENUINE."
"BEWARE OF UNUSUALLY CHEAP "BREMBO OFFERS", AS BREMBO'S PRODUCTS ARE NOW WIDELY COUNTERFEITED.
AT HPS WE GUARANTEE ALL OUR BREMBO COMPONENTS AND PADS ARE GENUINE."
If only they where the same as the "Brembo" pads BMW Dealers supply.
Wow, what a contentious topic! I had no idea there were so many opposing view points. I've used EBC pads in the past with no issues, and I think I'll stick with them and see how they go on the RT. If they don't last as long, you might be right that it would be of a lesser value, but time will tell. Weather turned back to winter, so my bike is parked for now. :-(
Our Gee wrote:
Dismantle and clean / lube gear change linkage. (Two ball joints and two shaft bearings to be greased).
Re: Winter Maintenance List
Gear change mechanism pic added for clarity. The 2 ball joints are at either end of item 2 in the pic.( Don't be tempted to loosen the screwed adjuster.) The small spring clips have to be carefully removed in order to dismantle the joint. This can be a bit fiddly the first time. The circular part has to be sprung away from it's locating groove then pulled down with long nose pliers to release the straight pin part from the joint.( It's the pin part which holds the joint together). The joint, (cup and ball) can the be parted, cleaned, packed with grease and re-assembled)
With the two shaft bearing bushes (Item 8) it's simply a matter of cleaning the shaft and bushes and re-greasing.
Hope this helps anyone who is going to attempt this task.
Think I'll pluck up the courage to have a go at this, don't want it ending up like this on a GS.
Our Gee wrote:
Dismantle and clean / lube gear change linkage. (Two ball joints and two shaft bearings to be greased).
Re: Winter Maintenance List
Gear change mechanism pic added for clarity. The 2 ball joints are at either end of item 2 in the pic.( Don't be tempted to loosen the screwed adjuster.) The small spring clips have to be carefully removed in order to dismantle the joint. This can be a bit fiddly the first time. The circular part has to be sprung away from it's locating groove then pulled down with long nose pliers to release the straight pin part from the joint.( It's the pin part which holds the joint together). The joint, (cup and ball) can the be parted, cleaned, packed with grease and re-assembled)
With the two shaft bearing bushes (Item 8) it's simply a matter of cleaning the shaft and bushes and re-greasing.
Hope this helps anyone who is going to attempt this task.
Think I'll pluck up the courage to have a go at this, don't want it ending up like this on a GS.
Buy the parts and take it to your mechanic, we all know what happens when you indulge in preventative maintenance! caliper seals, cough cough.
[size=78%] The tyre you speak of 'Michelin Pilot Road' non GT model is doing fine by the way, 400 miles now with no signs of self destruction, excessive wear or irregularities. I'll keep my eye on them just like I would with any tyre's and report my findings? I can't see any problems though as they are rated (73W) for bikes up to 365kg which the RT fits into.[/size]
Re: Winter Maintenance List
caliper seals, cough cough.