Beagle wrote:
I askd a Tech at dealers the best place to power a camera through the ignition. Mne has the Nav. Was tld use the fuse under the seat and piggy back the one that goes through ignition. Can the your nav not use this?
The problem is if whatever you are trying to power draws a small current when switched off then the Canbus / Linbus keeps circuit open and thats when you can get a battery drain. This guy http://sgbikerboy.com/2018/03/20/wiring-up-for-power-on-the-bmw-r1200gs-lc/ taps into the red/blue wire of the fuses your are talking about to get a switchable current to tigger a relay. This is used to bypass the bikes system. I think if I want to power additional toys then a separate circuit is probably the safest way to go. At the moment I like the Easternbeaver 3 circuit solution with a diode in the trigger lead to stop reverse flow current. They get good reviews.
RTman10 wrote:
Why would you when the bike has a dedicated socket for the GPS. I had an Auykvom on mine and that was connected via the fuse next to the battery box.
I'm getting very confused here. Isn't this the one we have been talking about that you don't like if anything other than BMW Garmin is connected to it.
Levisp wrote:
I'm getting very confused here. Isn't this the one we have been talking about that you don't like if anything other than BMW Garmin is connected to it.
Nothing about like or not like. The wiring in the BMW harness is different to other unit connections including the Garmin 660. So the harness connection is not your normal power socket. That’s why it sometimes can lead to a flat battery if a GPS is left connected.
Levisp wrote:
Well yes but I left a USB charger socket in mine once and it flattened the battery.
Everything is Canbus controlled including all fitted accessory sockets. On pre 2014 bikes on the right hand panel by the pillion grab rail there is an indentation that can be drilled out and it fits an accessory socket. Wire that directly to the battery and it’s live all the time. Just don’t leave anything in it.
On my 2012 TC, have got the following additional electrical items fitted to the bike.
1) Garmin Zumo 660 cradle powered via the plug/socket near the headstock.
2) Autocom powered via the switched live feed to the rear aux. socket on the LHS.
3) Supply for heated kit wired directly to the battery (fused lead), used via temp. controllers.
4) Battery charger lead wired directly to the battery (fused lead), can be used for air compressor etc.
None of these items cause any problems with battery drain.
Last edited by David. on Sat Jul 28, 2018 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
Levisp wrote:
The problem is if whatever you are trying to power draws a small current when switched off then the Canbus / Linbus keeps circuit open and thats when you can get a battery drain. This guy http://sgbikerboy.com/2018/03/20/wiring-up-for-power-on-the-bmw-r1200gs-lc/ taps into the red/blue wire of the fuses your are talking about to get a switchable current to tigger a relay. This is used to bypass the bikes system. I think if I want to power additional toys then a separate circuit is probably the safest way to go. At the moment I like the Easternbeaver 3 circuit solution with a diode in the trigger lead to stop reverse flow current. They get good reviews.
7.5 A (Slot 2: Multifunction switch left, tyre pressure con- trol (RDC), audio system)
If the above is only live with the ignition how can there be a drain when switchd off?
David. wrote:
On my 2012 TC, have got the following additional electrical items fitted to the bike.
1) Garmin Zumo 660 cradle powered via the plug/socket near the headstock.
2) Autocom powered via the switched live feed to the rear aux. socket on the LHS.
3) Supply for heated kit wired directly to the battery (fused lead), used via temp. controllers.
4) Battery charger lead wired directly to the battery (fused lead), can be used for air compressor etc.
None of these items cause any problems with battery drain.
The only time I have ever known an Autocom to cause a drain after switchoff when it’s connected to an accessory socket is when it also has a Bluetooth dongle attached. For many years the units are disabled when the riders headset is unplugged but the dongle can stay live.
Beagle wrote:
7.5 A (Slot 2: Multifunction switch left, tyre pressure con- trol (RDC),audio system)
If the above is only live with the ignition how can there be a drain when switchd off?
Good question. God knows. However taking a positap on the Blue/Red wire of the 7.5 amp fuse is a popular way of getting a switchable power source for a relay. However I have read that even here when the ignition is switched off there is a power draw for a short time, maybe same as aux socket, then it switches off. Now this delay must be for a reason some CanBus thing. Now I can only presume that like the aux socket if what ever is plug in causes a current draw, then maybe the CanBus says No to power off and so it stays live. This is when you get a battery drain. On the EasternBeaver web site he advises that the trigger wire when connected to a CanBus source should have an inline diode fitted to stop reverse current draw. I am guessing this will stop the CanBus thinking that something needs powering when switched off. Does that make sense ?
The CanBus / LinBus system can I believe measure the current draw in a particular circuit. It knows what it should be. Is this how it knows when a bulb is blown ? The problem is I cannot find any information on how it all works so I just guessing. Probably wrong !
Last edited by Levisp on Sat Jul 28, 2018 9:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thinking about this a little more maybe CanBus circuits stay live for a short time after switch off for diagnostic and shutdown procedure. After all a computer takes time to power off. Its not instant. This I think is where the problem lies. Bollocks maybe.
David. wrote:
Depending on which Autocom it is, a modification may need to be made to power the dongle from the base unit.
If this is the case, when the base unit is switched off, the dongle is too, therefore, no drain on the battery.
Some versions of the Autocom dongle don’t get their power via the unit but directly from the bike. Can’t remember which ones though. As always though after connecting anything just listen to ensure you hear the Csnbus click off.
The Autocom dongle (BTM-02-A) is either powered via the base unit, or with the plug removed, spliced into the switched live feed for the base unit itself.
This set up was used when I had a Garmin Zumo 220 bluetoothed to an Autocom Active Plus base unit.
I remember having to disable the 9v powerlink within the Active Plus and splicing into the 12v s/l feed from the bike for the AP base unit.
