Fitting a Rowe PDM60??

[AmberArmy]

Apologies for the noob question but I've never really mesed with the electrics of a bike before (and especially not on a CanBus system)
I have a 2016 bike - my question is about fitting extra accesories:
I want to purchase an Airman Tyre Inflator and on NippyNormans it saya it can't be driven from the under seat accesory DIN socket - I also have the new Innov K2 dual Camera system.  Both of these accesories need to be fitted direct to the battery.  From what I've read it seems the Rowe PDM60 may be the neatest solution here (especially as in the future I may want to add extra lights with switch on handlebar).
My plan is fit the PDM60 to the battery and use the switched wiring from the under seat DIN socket as the switch for the PDM60.  Next wire the undereat DIN socket to the PDM60 (anyone know how much power the Airman would draw??) and also attach the K2 to the PDM60. 

This seems to be a neater solution especially as I can then wire in the lights and program that output to be ground switched.
Does this make sense ?????
Cheers
AmberArmy

[gogs01]

I haven't fitted any electrical extras to my RT but I've used a PDM60 on a previous bike and it's a very useful bit of kit.  It allows for accessories to be powered up at ignition on or with an adjustable delay.  They also have individual short circuit protection.
It shouldn't interfere with the bike's canbus system and, if I wanted to increase the capacity of the auxilliary socket, camera, lights etc I would find somewhere to fit my PDM60.
Read all about it on the Rowe website, I think it's what you're looking for.

[CliveJ]

May be a bit late but this how I have wired  my PDM 60 & Innov K2.  Taken a live from battery jump post (saves removing battery) the split this to give me two live feeds, one for PDM 60 the other for the camera system.  The trigger wire to activate the PDM 60 was tapped off the live feed to the auxiliary socket fitted to the bike.  Trigger wire for camera then taken from one of the PDM 60 outputs.


    Regarding the compressor well I was fortunate to find someone had fiited leads to the battery for the use of a bike charger so I have modified the ends to suit my charger & fitted the other end onto the compressor thus tapping directly off the battery.  Then I am in the trade where I have access to these waterproof connectors & own the relevant crimping tools but still prefer to solder joints where possible.

[Levisp]

CliveJ how did you tap into the live wire from aux socket. These wires seem very thin to me. Did you use a posi-tap ? If so what size ? Or another cunning method. I was going to use the positive wire supplying the 7.5 Amp fuse under seat which seems to be another popular tap for trigger wire. I believe both of these are powered for a minute or so after ignition off does this cause any problems. Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure out a simple way of powering a TomTom without effecting the CanBus so have decided on the separate electrical circuit method but need a reliable tigger wire tap.

[Graham88]

If anyone is interested, I built a relay box for this purpose, a small ABS enclosure with a 60A automotive relay and 4 output sockets.

The box sits nicely behind the rear light assy and I took the pilot signal from the aux socket (soldered), took a couple of hours to make but works very well and only cost a tenner in parts.

If you want the plans/part no's I'm happy to share.

[Levisp]

If you can post the details I'm sure the forum would be interested.

[Graham88]

Excuse my crude circuit diagram but you should get the idea from it.
Parts:
Rapid Electronics:
1. Enclosure Part No: 30-0505
2. Rubber Sleeves 03-1605
3. Relay 51-0665
4. Sockets 20-1096 (x6) (1A each, you can use bigger if required),these are quite pricey and can be replaced with a screw terminal but I like the sockets.
5. Plugs 20-0915 (x6)
RS:
1. Relay Base 915-6691
[attachimg=1]
1. Cut out the enclosure for the 6 sockets and relay base
2. Wire up and solder all the components (1.5mm cable),use the rubber sleeves with a dab of utterly butterly to insulate the hot wires.
3. Cram it all into the enclosure and screw the lid down.
4. Run a cable from the battery with a 10A inline fuse to the top left socket.
5. Run a cable from the aux hot wire to the top right socket.
6. Run cables from the outputs to your device(s)
The LED is optional, doesn't really do much when buried behind the seat. I'll post some pictures of the finished article when I get home.
Total cost: £13.50 excluding cable and fuse.

[TJRL]

If you can post the details I'm sure the forum would be interested.

Before moving to PDM60s a few years ago, I used "FuzeBlocks" on my bikes and very good they are too. Very small with a miniature relay built in, and space for spare fuses. I purchased direct from USA but now NN has them,
https://www.nippynormans.com/fuse-panel ... fuse-panel
and very good they are too! I liked the ability to make any circuit "always on" (e.g. for the power socket) or ignition controlled just by moving the fuse over and the all in one format complete with earths for each circuit, I miss both of these features on the PDM60 as it does not do either. But the PDM60 does auto-reset rather than having to carry spare fuses.
Hope this helps someone.


PS - I still have couple of Fuzeblocks I am not using, if anyone is interested, £40 posted?

[temesvar]

You are not going wrong with PDM60, as long as the price suits you!
It is a very well built module, water proof and solid. Have the rear
lights connected to it, and by timer, they come on after bike is
started. I had a small problem with mine, as I didn't know that
when programing for a new device, have to reprogram for the
current ones. Not exactly a problem, but I was confused for a little
wile. Customer help at Rowe was quick to help me out!