Going from new to old RT

[Wizzle]

3rd time lucky on this - every time I try request another captcha image it drops everything I've written. Grrr.


Anyway - hello! I've been lurking and learning for a while now, but I think this is my first post.


Long story short, I've recently given up a company-owned RT (2016 LE) and now find myself looking for a winter / motorway commuter from my own pocket money. 2008-2010 RTs with around 30k on the clock seem to fit my budget, so it was a natural place to start.


I mostly loved my RT (compared to a Bonneville on a motorway in a storm who wouldnt?), but I did find it cramped after an hour or so, even with the high seat. I guess my question / appeal for thoughts and experience is for anyone who has had both old and new, or perhaps taller riders on the older RTs.


I have a few simple questions but would love to hear any ideas / experience that might help!

• Is there a high seat for the air cooled RT?
• Are there any must-have adjustments for taller riders? I'm a little over 6'3" with a 33" inside leg, and I used to have to push my feet back behind the pegs on the '16RT to take the pressure off my knees and hips
• Is there anything else I should consider? Such as - dare I mention it - a K1200GT? Wet / winter protection for a life on the motorway are the major factors here

Most of the bikes near me are private sale, with no option to test ride, so I may end up having to buy from a trader with a warranty / delivery. Not ideal, but my 1 year old daughter means I dont get to travel round the country looking for bikes at the weekend! I've done it before and it's worked out ok, but I'm trying to do as much research as possible before making that call!


I'd love to hear thoughts and experience!

[gogs01]

I had a 2010 RT, the first of the twin cams. No noticeable performance improvement over the single cam engine, but the switchgear was very different.  I would go for the last of the single cams rather than the first of the twin cams for that reason.  By 2013 the twin cam's switchgear issues seemed to have been resolved and they were then a really good bike to own.


As for seating position, I have a high seat on my current bike and can flat foot at that - and my legs are shorter than yours. I had the seat on my previous bike fitted with an extra layer of foam, which helped comfort-wise but didn't look pretty.  I think that might still be in my garage.
Good luck with whatever you choose !  ;D

[David.]

2008-2010 RTs with around 30k on the clock seem to fit my budget, so it was a natural place to start.

Have owned a 2007 Hexhead and two Camheads 2010 & 2012, still got the 2012 model, I prefer the cosmetic appearance of the Camhead.

I mostly loved my RT, but I did find it cramped after an hour or so, even with the high seat.

The LC high seat height is 830 - 850mm.

Is there a high seat for the air cooled RT

No, the pre-LC bike seat options are, standard (820 - 840mm) or low, plus a comfort/bench (extra-low) seat.

Are there any must-have adjustments for taller riders?

Footrest lowering kit.

Is there anything else I should consider? Wet / winter protection for a life on the motorway are the major factors here.

Taller/larger aftermarket screen.

[Erable]

I have knee problems, so although relatively short (5'9"),I find the riding position cramped. Years ago I picked up some foot peg extenders for my 1996 R1100RS - they are relatively expensive when purchased new, but affordable~ish when you find them on Fleabay. I also had to changed the clutch and brake levers, but it all worked and gave me a bit more room.

With my new-to-me 2015 R1200RT, it felt as though my knees were up to my chin... As it turns out, the foot peg extenders made in the 1990s by Wunderlich fit perfectly on the 2015 R1200RT! Problem solved! The R1200RT clutch lever can be adjusted to fit the new foot peg position - so can the brake lever but it takes more work.

Suggest you investigate that angle for a bit of relief. Hope this helps

Rich

[Wizzle]

Brilliant, thanks all - that's exactly what I was hoping for. I've always been surprised by how cramped I found such a big bike - I can go far further on my ancient CBF600! - but I struggled to adjust the '16 RT as it a) wasn't mine and b) I was told you couldnt adjust the pegs or gears with the shift assist. Good to hear there are a few options out there, as I think I'd rather adjust the devil I know than start all over again. And I'd miss that heated seat and ESA... Thanks for the detail, sugegstions and support!


Footrest lowering kit is the starting point then...

[Wizzle]

So  - and I realise this might throw a cat amongst the pigeons - all things being equal would you take a 2007 with 15,000 miles on the clock, or a 2013SE with 45,000 on the clock...?!


Seriously though - Rich, David and gogs01, that was really helpful thank you

[David.]

Footrest lowering kit is the starting point then.

Using the Motorcycle Ergonomics Simulator https://cycle-ergo.com/ may help to optimise seat height & footrest positions etc.

[Wizzle]

Thanks David - I have spent a fair bit of time on there over the years but I've never worked out the magic formula for comfortable! First time I've spotted the option to lower the pegs on it though so I'll have another go.

[David.]

All things being equal would you take a 2007 with 15,000 miles on the clock, or a 2013SE with 45,000 on the clock.

Plenty on Autotrader Bikes, the choice may depend on the budget.

[Casbar]

I ride two 07 RTP and we had a 10 RTP before it got rotten off in an accident. Both great bikes, but the 10 was def more sorted than the 07s. If it was me, I would go for the newest bike I could afford.

[Wizzle]

Good to know, thanks Casbar - I think that's what I was wondering. As David says, there's a fair few on Autotrader but the same price point buys older / lower mileage or newer / higher mileage, so I thought I'd ask!

[gogs01]

I'd have to go with the 2013 RT SE.
My 2013 90th Anniversary Edition was a superb bike.  It did lots of long trips, including all the way around the Baltic.  It did a lot of miles over the three years I had it and never gave any trouble.
45,000 miles shouldn't be an issue if it has been looked after.
Let us know what you get and how it works out.   

[David.]

All things being equal would you take a 2007 with 15,000 miles on the clock, or a 2013SE with 45,000 on the clock.

At £6K, here's a 2007 Hexhead with only 12,000 miles, https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified ... 500&page=1



If the Reg. No. is available, an MOT check can be done, https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/
This bike has advisories on F&R brakes slight fluctuation, discs warped. Plus, rear shock is suspect. My 2007 Hexhead had the front disc changed for the same reason.

At £5.5K, here's a 2013 Camhead with 42,000 miles, https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified ... 500&page=1

Reg. No. not available.



Both a similar distance from Oxford.

[Casbar]

Mileage isn't always the deciding factor, its about how its been maintained, which sounds obvious. Of our two 07 RTPs, we bought with low mileage and now they have only done around 26k. But one suffered a broken drive shaft and abs failure. The second has just had to have a new diff fitted as it was leaking and that one also suffered abs failure.

[David.]

At 10K miles, my 2007 Hexhead partially seized on both cylinders. Apparently, at the time, BMW were investigating a problem with the pistons.

Still prefer the looks of the Camhead, coincidently, my Hexhead was silver & Camhead is blue as above.