What do you use to keep your chrome exhaust shiny?

[David.]

The F800Riders thread seems to be referring to a remote network of dealers selling Hilltop software.

The thread was posted in June 2019, I visited Hilltop in August 2019. My most recent correspondence with Hilltop was in March 2020.

Doesn't make sense to me.

[hammo]

Got lost a bit there !!!! mapping ? shiny exhausts ?

[David.]

Sorry if I've contributed to taking the thread off topic. I was just trying to be helpful in answering a question.

Wonder what loosing the flap would do for performance?

This led on to my experiences with Hilltop when considering removing the EFCV & Cat. from my Camhead.

The discolouration of exhausts is temperature related from a lean running engine. Therefore, with the correct AFR (re-mapping),  exhausts may stay shinier for longer.

The thread has developed from problems keeping chrome exhausts shiny to looking at alternatives such as stainless steel and ceramic coating.

Life & exhausts would be a bit dull without reasoned discussion.

[Old-Git]

well blackwidow say their stainless headers "will blue and bronze with use" so the main saving will be weight. There is a bike dealer local to me who has a little used rolling road / dynometer / whatever it they are called who has said he will put mine on it and only charge if it does need a remap. I'm very tempted as we have another 3 weeks of lockdown.

[David.]

Although s/s will discolour, it can be more aggressively polished than chrome to make it shiny again with causing any damage.

If you do go ahead with the BW s/s headers, it'll be very interesting to see how you get on with the potential re-map. Would the local bike dealer be prepared to check the AFR etc. with the OEM system on the bike as a base line. Removing the cat. & flap "allegedly" requires remapping or is it all just BS.

Akrapovic, the only silencer "approved" for use by BMW say, if fitting the non-cat. version headers, remapping the ECU is recommended in order to prevent »check engine light« warning signal and achieve optimized performance and throttle response. They are supposed to be the experts or perhaps Treetop Tuning are.

[Old-Git]

Hmmm I was just about to buy the headers, but I thought I'd try the stud nuts first. Glad I did, they ain't very good, even after a spray of plus gas. Socket slipped once so I stopped. Next week the bike will be up on the ramp so I can service it, I think I'll see if the nuts will come off before I go ahead with the headers.

[David.]

Interesting, are the stud nuts like this and is there exposed stud thread showing.





Some discussion on BMWMOA, https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.ph ... eader-nuts

JVB the BMW Guru recommended using a 12 point 13mm socket.

[Old-Git]

Interesting, are the stud nuts like this and is there exposed stud thread showing.

Well the outer ones are. Can't lie down to have a look at the inners, will have to wait until it goes up on the lift.

[David.]

I must admit that removing the header nuts on my Camhead is a concern.
Hopefully, with this type of hex head nut which fully covers the stud thread, it won't be so much of a problem.





Perhaps applying some heat to the nut on a Wethead may help.
The backs of the nuts are like this which may not be helping the situation.

[michaelc2710]

I must admit that removing the header nuts on my Camhead is a concern.
Hopefully, with this type of hex head nut which fully covers the stud thread, it won't be so much of a problem.



Perhaps applying some heat to the nut on a Wethead may help.
The backs of the nuts are like this which may not be helping the situation.

The bottom nut is the better one of the two, as the rear are the lock when tightened up, The top enclosed nut's shouldn't be used on really on exhaust's as the studs have no way of cooling, so the nut can end up coming lose with the expansion and contraction. The stud and nut will expand and contract at difference temperatures/ speed.
Have you purchased some headers David ? and which ones if you are concerned about removing your nuts.

[David.]

The bottom nut is the better one of the two, as the rear are the lock when tightened up. The top enclosed nuts shouldn't be used really on exhausts as the studs have no way of cooling, so the nut can end up coming lose with the expansion and contraction. The stud and nut will expand and contract at difference temperatures/speed.

Perhaps this is why BMW have changed the nuts from Camhead to Wethead.

Have you purchased some headers David and which ones if you are concerned about removing your nuts.

No, I'm just thinking ahead to possibly having the headers Cermakrome coated like Simbo has had done.
Whilst trying to gain some confidence that if I do, removing the nuts won't be a problem.

[Beagle]

Well the outer ones are. Can't lie down to have a look at the inners, will have to wait until it goes up on the lift.

Those funny looking copper coloured nuts are the same that are fitted to aircraft except they are titanium.

[David.]

These nuts are described as 12 point or bi-hex, they are useful where access is limited.



Hence why a suitable socket is required, a 6 point or hex socket won't work.

[simbo]

@David..dont worry about the manifold nuts, they're only done up to 21Nm so they're not very tight.

[Beagle]

Those fancy nuts are torqued to 28Nm