Differential Rear Spline Lubrication Interval

[Beagle]

Have ordered the Honda Moly 60/M77. Bikes only done 2000 dry miles so its a winter layup job. Found a source of Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM for the seals. Just need to decide whether to remove the shaft or do the toothbrush method on Youtube for the gearbox end. Plenty of time to mull it over.


WHAT THE MANUFACTURER STATES ABOUT THE PRODUCT:"- Primary Use – Part assembly; running in; as a press-fitting lubricant where high temperature is a factor. - Special Characteristics – Wider and higher operating temperature range than organic oil based pastes; extreme loads; low speeds. Physical Form – Black, soap thickened, silicone fluid based paste containing more than 60% MoS2.

[Beagle]

This video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ub07EkInVY shows how to lubricate the UJ splines and the gearbox output shaft on a Camhead.

I imagine it's a similar procedure on a Wethead.

If you do the front spline as in this video and also drop the rear bevel then will the shaft slide out completely. Would make it easier to grease both ends.

[David.]

Have ordered the Honda Moly 60/M77.

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/honda-mol ... -65oz.html?

This is what BMW use for the spline, Castrol Molub-Alloy Paste TA.



https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-spar ... Paste.html

[David.]

Found a source of Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM for the seals.

https://webshop.antifriction.co.uk/Prod ... 21%2520KLU

[Beagle]

Yes those are my sources

[David.]

If you do the front spline as in this video and also drop the rear bevel then will the shaft slide out completely. Would make it easier to grease both ends.

In theory yes, sounds simple, the driveshaft should be able to be removed from within the swingarm.



Unless like this one, it's seized with rust, having already removed the swingarm.



A pry bar needed to be used, look at the damage to the gearbox case.

[Beagle]

Its a no brainer then when doing the rear to remove the shaft. It would then be possible to lube both ends and anti rust treat the shaft.

[Beagle]

At only 2years and 2000 miles, I would think mine will not be that bad.

[David.]

Found a source of Kluber Staburags NBU 30 PTM for the seals.

Found the BMW listing for Staburags NBU 30 PTM, PN 07 55 9 056 992, https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-spar ... 0-Ptm.html

[Beagle]

Ordered it from Antifriction.

[David.]

Surprisingly, both of the BMW badged products are cheaper, presumably, they could be ordered from any local BMW car or bike dealer, saving postage too.

Antifriction have a branch in Stockton-on-Tees, just over the road from my local BMW car dealer.

[Beagle]

Free postage and not to a bit over a quid to get it now.

[David.]

It's a no brainer then when doing the rear to remove the shaft. It would then be possible to lube both ends and anti rust treat the shaft.

Just a precautionary thought. Could any potential force required to pop the gearbox end UJ back on to the output shaft cause any damage to the UJ itself.
In this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ub07EkInVY it warns against striking the UJ with a mallet.

The force is being applied by the gearbox output shaft to the UJ at that end.

It's possible that when being assembled at the factory, the drive shaft is fitted to the gearbox first with good access, then the swingarm slid over the shaft.

Many years ago, a Yamaha dealer used a slide hammer to remove the UJ from the drive shaft on my XJ650. It's a similar set up with a circlip. The result was a new UJ being required. I've since binned the circlip and had no further problems when disassembling/reassembling the shaft/FD unit and it hasn't fallen to bits.

Sorry to sound negative but just wanted to share my bad experience.

[Beagle]

No, the UJ yoke has a chamfer to ride up and the circlip should just drop into the groove

[David.]

Is the circlip in the UJ rather than on the shaft, that might be the difference between the Yamaha and BMW set up.