USB in the top box

Post by **NLC** » Fri Jun 12, 2020 8:31 pm

When I next take my bike apart I was considering running a USB in the new style top box. Has anyone done this? Looks pretty straightforward by drilling on the bottom left hand side. This would be handy for charging my helmet or spare batteries. Would be interested to see how others have mounted a rubber gromet or gland to secure and keep connection water proof. Ask twice drill once as the say.

Post by **Old-Git** » Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:33 am

IMHO these are the easiest way to go for USB power https://www.nippynormans.com/f800-adven ... g-and-play
Won't charge anything in your top box but saves drilling holes.... HTH
Nick

Post by **NLC** » Sat Jun 13, 2020 8:45 am

Thanks Nick. The desire for the socket in the top box is to charge my helmet which has an integrated comms. The helmet lives in the top box and saves me from having to bring it in the house, leave on a table and the young ones (or old ones) knock it. I’ve seen it done a few times but never looked at the routing. One guy ran power through the top box connector which seems like a lot of effort rather making a small hole for a new cable.

Post by **David.** » Sat Jun 13, 2020 2:52 pm

NLC wrote:Would be interested to see how others have mounted a rubber gromet or gland to secure and keep connection water proof.

Haven't done it myself but eventually came across this idea using Powerlet products.

"Powerlet brand stuff, such as the weatherproof passthrough that works on hard and soft luggage."

Post by **David.** » Sat Jun 13, 2020 3:19 pm

Here is an option that requires one 25mm dia. hole, https://www.r1200gs.info/threads/pdm60- ... ses.25873/

This one only requires a 14mm dia. hole, https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o30 ... -cable-set

Post by **NLC** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:19 am

David. wrote: Here is an option that requires one 25mm dia. hole, https://www.r1200gs.info/threads/pdm60-accessory-power-to-hard-cases.25873/

This one only requires a 14mm dia. hole, https://www.optimate.co.uk/products/o30-tank-bag-cable-set

Thanks David. Exactly what I am looking for. The cable or hole is not the issue but finding a gland. Like that you can also disconnect if you are taking box off.

Post by **PeteM** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:24 am

NLC wrote:
Thanks David. Exactly what I am looking for. The cable or hole is not the issue but finding a gland. Like that you can also disconnect if you are taking box off.

Silicon bathroom sealant

Post by **David.** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 1:04 pm

NLC wrote:The cable or hole is not the issue but finding a gland.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-male-c ... pack/80851

Post by **NLC** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:33 pm

Thanks David. I have a bunch of those but they don’t sit flush and are not long enough and the box is double skinned. The Optimate looks much better.

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Post by **NLC** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:34 pm

PeteM wrote:
Silicon bathroom sealant

I’d rather use duct tape.

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Post by **David.** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 8:53 pm

NLC wrote:Not long enough and the box is double skinned. The Optimate looks much better.

What thickness is the double skin of the top box. The Optimate O30 might not be long enough either. Could always make the inner hole a larger diameter.

Or, with the Powerlet style connector, longer screws could be used.

Post by **NLC** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:01 pm

David I am still looking for a schematic for the box and haven’t taken it apart yet. From my guess the box flairs from the mounting bracket. The Powerlet looks best since as you say you can use longer screws. Also as it is flat it will allow the box to sit  flat when off the bike. One other think I am looking as it is if you can feed a cable through the existing gland and come out of the right hand side of the box. It is quite a clever box them Germans have built with gas struts, 4 point locking mechanism, brake light and vanity light. Shame they didn’t put an accessory socket in the box as it would have been easy to do.

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Post by **David.** » Sun Jun 14, 2020 9:43 pm

NLC wrote:One other think I am looking as it is if you can feed a cable through the existing gland and come out of the right hand side of the box.

https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1600gt-gt ... l-gtl.html

Post by **NLC** » Mon Jun 15, 2020 6:02 pm

David. wrote: Re: USB in the top box

https://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1600gt-gtl/61851-aux-power-install-gtl.html

That is exactly what I want to do (except I would run two USB) and plug directly into the battery as I want things to charge my helmet while the bike is off. If I need a compressor or anything I will plug directly into my Optimate socket. I can see that from the post from the K1600 forum that getting the box apart looks like a challenge since there are some rivets and I can imagine the locking mechanism falling apart into a million pieces as you take it apart. Thanks for sharing David. I did a search on that but didn't think to include K1600 on R1200RT.

Post by **NLC** » Sat Jun 20, 2020 9:41 pm

NLC wrote: That is exactly what I want to do (except I would run two USB) and plug directly into the battery as I want things to charge my helmet while the bike is off. If I need a compressor or anything I will plug directly into my Optimate socket. I can see that from the post from the K1600 forum that getting the box apart looks like a challenge since there are some rivets and I can imagine the locking mechanism falling apart into a million pieces as you take it apart. Thanks for sharing David. I did a search on that but didn't think to include K1600 on R1200RT.

Well had some time this afternoon and the weather was nice. I took the top box off. I have no idea how it is held together. So I did want most responsible people do. Drill an 11m hole in the strut area. I took off the rubber grommet where the light cable exits the box. It is slightly awkward since the inlet hole is the opposite direction of the bike. Putting a soft cloth down I opened the box clam shell and ran some thin red cable until I could see it in the hole and ran the power cable. Pretty happy with the install. I have wired it directly to the battery with a 5 amp fuse. The socket that I got from Ebay has a voltmeter and an on/off switch. One thing that caught me out is that + in China is black and negative is red apparently.