Handlebar Combination Switches

[Our Gee]

Hello all,

Our 2012 Twincam RT has just had it's third replacement nearside Handlebar Combination Switch fitted. The first switch failed (cruise control function) at about 8000 miles and together with the Offside Switch was replaced under warranty. This lasted less than 4000 miles before the Cruise Control function failed yet again. The second replacement failed straight out of the box so a third unit was fitted. I have noted that this switch has slightly different markings on the ASC / ESA button. However, having a good close up look at the switch I am amazed at the poor design. The cable entry into the actual switch body is very poor as the "grooved" rubber gland does not align with the grooves in the switch body. Also the item described as "Cover" in the parts fiche, even when fitted correctly leaves a opening in the body which will allow water entry. I am thinking of applying some form of sealant at this area and was wondering if others have carried out a similar "bodge" !!.
Any advice appreciated, thanks.

[David.]

Well, it looks like my 2012 Camhead could be developing a problem with the LHS handlebar combination switch. The cruise control button has become very wobbly and its' action is not particularly positive. Occasionally, the cc refused to set the selected speed. On checking with a.n.other whose RT is older but has done less miles, the cc button is certainly more secure and has a good action.

I'll be contacting the dealers in the morning to see what they have to say about it. Hopefully, they'll say, yes Sir it shouldn't be like that here's a new one.

Having checked my Insured warranty, under Electrical system, handlebar combination switches are covered.

In 2015, the RHS switch failed, (stop/start button),  this switch was replaced while in Germany. When back in the UK, the LHS switch was changed under the if one switch fails, they will replace both policy.

[Sharkfighter]

My LHS was slightly loose and the left indicator would only work intermittently, hazards were fine. Took it to the dealer and the switch was worn and replaced under warranty, cost the dealer told me, was £350.

[David.]

Took it to the dealer and the switch was worn and replaced under warranty.

That's helpful thank you, hopefully, I'll get the same result. What mileage had your bike done at the time.

[Sharkfighter]

It was around 20k, though it is a 2013 and was done earlier this year.

[David.]

My RT has now done a further 25K miles since the switches were both replaced in 2015.

The bike is booked in next week to have the problem diagnosed.

[David.]

Called in at Cooper (now Vertu) Sunderland BMW today on the off change that someone could have a look at the cc switch. I was amazed they did and pleased with the outcome. The Man from Delmonte said yes, the switch is worn and it will be replaced under my Insured Warranty. The part needs to be ordered from Germany and the bike is booked in on Monday 20th September to have the work done. All for my excess of £100!

[Sharkfighter]

Davis glad you got it sorted.

[David.]

Had the switch changed today, the cost of which is £363.00 plus labour. I duly paid my £100 excess and said thank you very much.

[Our Gee]

I note that the original part number for this switch was changed a few years ago presumably due to a design change. The original number 61 31 854 6 209 is superseded by 61 31 855 0033. Without a warranty to cover what seems like inevitable failure, this component is very expensive to replace and quite frankly is a dammed disgrace. As I said above my first Twincam was on it's 3rd Switch in 5 years.

[Sullivj]

I wonder what part fails....  It would be nice to take an old one apart to see what went wrong.  Did they give you back your failed one David?

[David.]

The "official" diagnosis was that the cruise control button part of the switch was mechanically worn, although still functioning correctly.

This is an example of the switch internals from a K1600, one can only assume that the mechanical plastic movement wears out. (Ignore the white wire, that is a repair).



No, they didn't give me the failed switch, I think it's a bit like other insurance where effectively, the part becomes the property of the insurer/warranty.

As highlighted with the change of part number, the rocker switch for the suspension adjustment now displays a symbol of a shock absorber, rather than the previous ESA. Don't know if this is just cosmetic or internal changes have been made to the switch.

[Sullivj]

Interesting - thanks David.  I like to think that things can be repaired instead of replaced, but it looks like this could be out of my league!!

[Our Gee]

There is at least one example of a repair being carried out on Utube. Unfortunately, like Sullivj this would be beyond my own patience and competence level. Having rode many other bikes I can honestly say that the Switches on modern BMW's are the most "orrible" creations ever. The "feel" action is "gritty" and rough. The Direction Indicator switch wore a hole through my left glove at the thumb position. The matt finish looks cheap and nasty compared to other marques, especially Japanese bikes. I recently rode a Triumph Sprint for over a year and the difference was amazing. I did notice a few months ago on another forum that someone was asking why can't we have "illuminated" switches ! !. Please Mr BMW don't be tempted to go down that route, that would be tempting fate.
When referring to BMW Combination Switches the saying "Cheap and Nasty" needs to be changed to "Expensive and Nasty". That's it, Rant Over !!.

[David.]

After 41 years and 54K miles on my Yamaha XJ650, the only part of any handlebar combination switch which has failed was the horn button on the LHS.

The black plastic button broke off, I was able to buy a replacement part for less than a tenner. Split the alloy switch and replace the button.