GuyRT wrote:
I'm not sure if it's even necessary to fit a Healtech.
As far as I can see if you were to disconnect the cables from the exhaust valve and leave them free so that the solenoid still moves them, the bike has no way of knowing whether the valve flap is moving or not.
There are no sensors after the valve or attached to the valve itself.
I suspect the bike only throws a code when there's an excess current load caused by the solenoid where the valve is sticking?
The exhaust valve flap should spring open by default and so long as it can be moved into the open position with the cables disconnected it should stay there.
I suspect the bike will then run fine without throwing any codes.
I'll find out for sure if this is actually the case once my bike is out of warranty, the first time the valve sticks because this will be my first move!
Nope it is not the case. If you just disconnect the cables, the solenoid will still throw an error code. The spring on the top of the valve resets the valve to open and the solenoid so the solenoid pulls the valve to closed but the spring pushes it back to open. If on a pre 1250 there will be an error but no visible warning lights. On the 1250 there is an orange engine warning light when the valve is stuck. The only way to sort is - new headers, or clear code with a GS911 and fit a servo buddy to fool the ecu.