09' R1200RT Clutch bleeding DIY

[SD1]

Hi all, I searched around for a DIY clutch bleeding thread and so far haven't found anything that gives a step by step. I have a retired Police bike 09' 1200RT-P that has been sitting long long time and the clutch is vague/not engaging/disengaging properly. I want to start by flushing out the old fluid and getting some new juice in there and properly bleeding it to see if that is the issue or if there is possibly something more afoot(the bike only has 7300 miles).

I read that the system uses mineral oil or Pentosin? is what I think I used on the last bike, not sure, but I cant even find it in the owners manual. It just says if the clutch needs something take it to the dealer. Uh, no thanks.

Anyhoo, seems like back filling it with a syringe is the way to go, but would like a little direction on fluid type and the process if anyone would be so kind!!

The clutch worked great on my previous bike, but I did do a fluid swap in the reservoir to freshen it up. I think I used Pentosin but cant remember.

Thanks! -Doug

[David.]

The Haynes manual for a Camhead gives the following procedure for bleeding the clutch.

To bleed the clutch, you will need some new Vitamol clutch fluid, a length of clear vinyl or plastic tubing, a syringe with a capacity of 100 cc to back-fill the system, some rags and a spanner to fit the release (slave) cylinder bleed valve.

Temporarily displace the master cylinder and empty any old clutch fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.

Install the master cylinder on the handlebars and tighten the clamp screws securely. Position the handlebars so that the top of the master cylinder reservoir is as level as possible. Do not fit the diaphragm, locking ring or cover.

(Edit: Using a syringe to withdraw the old clutch fluid from the master cylinder reservoir would do the same).

Remove the cap from the bleed valve, (on the slave cylinder). If using a ring spanner, fit it over the bleed valve now. Attach one end of the clear tubing to the bleed valve and secure it with a cable-tie. Fill the syringe with new Vitamol V10 clutch fluid and connect it to the other end of the tubing.

Open the bleed valve and slowly inject the clutch fluid into the system via the release (slave) cylinder until it reaches the upper level in the reservoir. Do not overfill. Close the bleed valve.

Carefully squeeze the clutch lever to ensure no air is trapped in the upper end of the system, then release the lever slowly.

Disconnect the hose from the bleed valve and ensure that the valve is tightened securely. Fit the valve cap. Wipe up any spilled clutch fluid.

Check the fluid level in the reservoir, then install the reservoir cover or cap.

Check the operation of the clutch before riding the motorcycle.

[David.]

These pictures show fluid being injected via the Slave Cylinder bleed nipple (on a Camhead).

[SD1]

Here are a couple of pics, the reservoir was full but the fluid is pretty polluted, second pic of the fluid I extracted from the reservoir. I cleaned out the reservoir using a microfiber and got it pretty clean, there was a light coating of black film on the bottom of the reservoir. It wasn't completely black but I would give the quality of the fluid as poor.

I also flushed the brakes. There was fluid in the line in the rear brake but the reservoir was empty. Front was clean but the lever was mushy. I am guessing all of these fluids may have been in the bike since it was new. I didnt see any tool marks on either the brake or clutch reservoir.

[SD1]

Thanks @David. I probably need to get a manual.....

I will see about getting the goods to do the backfill. I have never heard of "vitamol", I will snoop around and see what I can find.

Curious, will the system fill the reservoir when the clutch lever is in the engaged position? Guess it would?

Last question for now. While I emptied the reservoir, assume when I back fill its going to push (and mix) new fluid with the old fluid that is still in the line and slave cylinder up to the reservoir yes?

Thinking I just need to back fill until I am seeing fresh fluid in the reservoir and can top off the reservoir itself once this is completed?

Thanks!!

-Doug

[SD1]

OK, ordered the goods, syringe and tubing. Going to go pick up the fluid at the dealer.

If anyone has a manual they are not using, let me know, or comment on the online version that is only $25, is that a good option?

Thanks again.

[David.]

The Hexhead Haynes manual doesn't have this procedure in it.

This is the clutch fluid which was used in the above pictures, https://www.motorworks.co.uk/hyspin-v-1 ... 546-1.html

AFAIK, the clutch lever would need to be in the clutch engaged position. I would have to ask the guy who provided the pictures to confirm.

Although the reservoir may be empty, open the slave cylinder bleed valve to drain out all the old clutch fluid. Put some new fluid in the reservoir and allow it to flush out the old before back filling with new. Or disconnect the hydraulic hose and let gravity do the work.

If you are feeling brave, dismantle the master cylinder and clean it out properly. This thread shows it being done on a Camhead, viewtopic.php?p=55826&hilit=clutch#p55826

[SD1]

AFAIK, the clutch lever would need to be in the clutch engaged position. I would have to ask the guy who provided the pictures to confirm.

Although the reservoir may be empty, open the slave cylinder bleed valve to drain out all the old clutch fluid. Put some new fluid in the reservoir and allow it to flush out the old before back filling with new.

That sounds good. Thanks!

I have two syringes coming, per your suggestion, I will fill the res and will use one to pull the old goo out of the line and slave cylinder.

AND, for the record, I DID NOT do the clutch reservoir on the last RTP I had. I would have remembered the whacky gumball blue fluid that is $5 an OZ. I went through a couple of bikes and probably thought I had done it on the RTP when in fact I did not. The clutch operated perfectly and I never touched it.

[Stu]

If you are going the reverse bleed method ie pushing it up with the syringe then don't drain any fluid out except for emptying the reservoir

In fact I don't recommend bleeding any system dry as they can be a right nightmare to fill up again and get all the air out

The trick is to have enough fluid in the syringe to fill the system in one go and push all the air out otherwise stopping halfway through will just introduce more air to the system

It is best to have two people one to fill the system with the syringe and one to watch the master cylinder to make sure it doesn't overflow and also for them to draw some off if need be

Take it slowly with a nice steady pressure on the syringe. Not too much as the pipe could burst off and you could shoot fluid out the master cylinder

Slow and steady winds the race

[SD1]

If you are going the reverse bleed method ie pushing it up with the syringe then don't drain any fluid out except for emptying the reservoir

In fact I don't recommend bleeding any system dry as they can be a right nightmare to fill up again and get all the air out

The trick is to have enough fluid in the syringe to fill the system in one go and push all the air out otherwise stopping halfway through will just introduce more air to the system

Yup, def don't want to evacuate the system completely. So stick with the original plan to 100% back fill and just swap out the reservoir fluid until its filling with clean fluid. Sounds like a plan, thank you @sakm for the comment!

[David.]

This guy dismantled the clutch master cylinder and successfully back filled the system.



Don't know if the hydraulic hose was drained but if it was, it could always be refilled by back filling, before connecting it to the master cylinder.

[Stu]

This guy dismantled the clutch master cylinder and successfully back filled the system.

it can be done but it can also be a massive pain!

I have spend hours and hours trying to get air out of a system before I now prefer the easy option and prefer not to drain them unless I really have to

[SD1]

I saw those threads, I noted that there was some conversation about replacing the plunger and sourcing a KTM part v. the BMW piece.

[David.]

This looks like a fairly comprehensive procedure, https://www.ukgser.com/technical/nick/C ... %20on).pdf

"If a ‘dry’ installation has been made (for example, the clutch master cylinder, release cylinder or hydraulic line have been replaced) and the hydraulic circuit is contaminated with air from any source:"

Refer to the attached procedure.

[David.]

I saw those threads, I noted that there was some conversation about replacing the plunger and sourcing a KTM part v. the BMW piece.

That's because BMW don't offer a master cylinder repair kit. You have to buy a whole new assembly.