Parts

[SimonD]

I went for EBC rear disc and pads (sintered). The bike has been ridden through several winters and I was prepared for a real mess but it was much better than I expected. The backs of the pads were rusty but the pistons were very clean. Got the footrest plates powder coated and removed the flapper valve at the same time.
I won't order anything at the front until I pull it apart and inspect it all but I will most likely go with EBC again. I'm considering getting the ESA shocks rebuilt at the same time.

[David.]

I went for EBC rear disc and pads (sintered).

Would that be the MD671 rear disc and FA363HH pads.

https://www.motorworks.co.uk/brake-disc-bra00671-1.html


https://www.motorworks.co.uk/brake-pads ... 97a-1.html

[David.]

I won't order anything at the front until I pull it apart and inspect it all but I will most likely go with EBC again.

An interesting quote from Motorworks, "Do not use HH rated pads on the rear unless also used on the front to avoid brake imbalance."

[SimonD]

Yes, that's the stuff. I think the old pads were EBC HH too but they were in quite a state. I decided that since I was replacing the disc it would be a false economy to reuse the old ones even if they had plenty of life left in them.
I've just pulled one of the front callipers off and it is a similar story. After cleaning up, the pads are barely worn EBC HH but at least not rusty this time. The discs measure 4.42mm so also well within tolerance. It's looking like all the front is going to need is a few new fastenings (for cosmetic benefit - I'm a tart!) some copaslip and a vat of brake cleaner.

Now I've got to decide what to do with the fork lowers.

[David.]

It's looking like all the front is going to need is a few new fastenings (for cosmetic benefit).

Stainless steel caliper pins look nice, got mine from Chris Shaw Engineering.

viewtopic.php?p=43675&hilit=stainless#p43675

[Doctor T]

I have HH pads all around. I know this may sound silly but i find my rear brake is now on or off with no feel to the pedal. Before they had a progressive feel with Brembo organics. I've checked everything and it's tip-top. No sticky pistons etc. BMW confirmed this with a free health check. I will revert to organic once they wear down. I changed my rear disc at 53 thou miles. A lip had started and was down to 3.9mm. It still had the original fitted going by the service history.

[vennie]

On a slightly different note been looking for a workshop manual for the 2010 rt. preferably in paper format. If anyone has such a beastie they could sell to me be very appreciative.
I too like to do everything new when I buy a second hand bike so will be doing all the fluids etc once weather warms up a bit as working outdoors. Will also build a belly pan for it to protect the exhausts. Got 1mm stainless plate here ready to go.

[David.]

Looking for a workshop manual for the 2010 RT, preferably in paper format.

Haynes currently have their printed book manual on offer at £23.
There is a 5% discount code of SP5 available.
By the time shipping at £2.99 is added the total cost is just less than £25.

https://haynes.com/en-gb/bmw/r1200rt/2010-2012

[David.]

I have HH pads all around. I find my rear brake is now on or off with no feel to the pedal.
Before they had a progressive feel with Brembo organics. I will revert to organic once they wear down.

As has been posted previously, the BMW Rider's manual for a Hexhead says, Front - Sintered and Rear - Organic.

For the Camhead, Front & Rear are both Sintered.

[vennie]

Just ordered the Haynes manual. As soon as we get some dry weather here in centre Scotland will get out and check discs and pads etc.

Thanks for the advice.