Please help me pick next bike

[Guinness58]

New member currently riding a R1100R I bought in 1995. I am considering upgrading to a RT. Locally I found a 2005 in great shape, 25K miles for $4,500. Should I look at the Camhead 2010-2013 instead? The Wetheads are nice but more than I would like to spend. I live in Idaho and would use the bike for multi day trips. Thank you in advance, all comments welcome.

[Doctor T]

Welcome to our site

[sre7]

Greetings, and welcome to the forum. I'm not a frequent poster, but I might be able to assist you with your question.

I currently have and have loved my 1999 R1100r, that is, after I put the John Gemi chip in the computer and new injectors. Great introduction to BMW motorcycles. I also have a 2007 R1200RT that is an amazing upgrade from the R1100. I did a bunch of research and accepted the recommendations to not purchase an RT below 2007. This is due to the change in 2007 to the "non-wizzy" ABS brake system. I personally do not like the feel of the wizzy (assisted) brakes. I really don't care for them due to the "default" condition when the assisted brake system goes into "fail" mode. The fail mode is, from what I'm told, the brakes' stopping power drop to 10%-20%, and it can happen without pre-warning. This single issue is, in some people's opinion, the reason BMW dropped the assisted brakes in 2007. Now, let me also say that there are a lot of Boxer riders who really like the assisted brakes, but you need to try it for yourself. There is a whole other group of assisted brake bike owners who just removed the ABS system from their bikes and some claim that the bike never stopped better.

Another challenge reported for the assisted brakes is that the ABS system might fail more frequently than the earlier (2000 and earlier) or the later (2007-today) ABS systems. My understanding for repairing the assisted ABS system is around $2500-$3000 USD.

Now, other than the assisted brakes, I believe the 2005 RT you are looking at is very similar to the 2006-2009 RT's. I like my 2007 very much, and the benefit of the 2005-2007 is that the valves are still the older tappet (screw and nut) adjustment type. Which means with the proper feeler gauge, almost anyone can do a valve adjustment on this era boxer. By the way, these are called the Hex-head era. The 2010-2013 are called the CamHead era.

When it gets cold up there in Idaho, you will be amazed at how great the RT is at keeping a whole bunch of cold off of you, the rider. The RT also has a seemingly unique way of just eating up miles upon miles and leaving the rider surprisingly refreshed at the end.

If you want a 2005 RT, I would be fully aware of the following:

1. The assisted brakes issue. If the seller has detailed records of the ABS system being bled at least every other year, but hopefully every year...then that is a good sign the bike was taken care of properly. If there are no detailed records...this would be a strong point in the negotiations.
2. Check the rear-wheel drive for "looseness" or "sloppiness"...by putting the bike on the center stand, with the rear wheel off the ground, grasp the rear wheel at "3:00 and 9:00" positions, and see if you can "flex" the wheel back and forth...there shouldn't be any movement. Then do the same thing at 12:00 and 6:00 - there should be no movement. If there is, then you either have a rear wheel bearing that is not too good, or you have a rear pivot busing/bearing that is loose.
3. Ask the seller when the fuel pump and inside-the-tank fuel lines were changed last. If you have no knowledge, then an 18-year-old bike is going to need these items replaced. Sooner rather than later.
4. Check to see if there is any oil dripping out under the tranny. This might mean that the "clutch-slave-cylinder is shot, and this is a really big deal to watch because the final outcome of a leaking clutch-slave-cylinder is the oil gets all over your clutch disk and soils and ruins the clutch. Clutch repairs are in the $2500-$3000 range. A factory clutch-slave-cylinder is only about $260+-.
5. Don't forget to check out the shocks also. 18 years is a long life for a shock. I road a 2015 RT yesterday and then went back to my 2007 Rt and totally felt the difference between good shocks and tired shocks. Tired shocks aren't nearly as fun as good shocks are. I now see why many people say that after the maintenance items...the very next purchase should be....new, updated shocks.

So sorry for the long post...but really, we RT or even R guys need to stick together.

[BitterrootBugler]

I picked up an extremely-low mileage 2009 R1200RT-P (patrol version). I'm guessing it was the exclusive steed of the supervising patrol sergeant and got traded in with the rest of the fleet when they aged out. Anyway, it is a lovely bike, though I now would prefer having the side cases and passenger seat. It has lovely power, impressive handling, dazzling brakes (even in corners), and returning 44.5mpg while driving up and over the hills of western Montana from 4,000 feet to over 7,000... all con-brio as if I were half my 74 years old.

I looked around the Internet for technical spec changes year-over-year and think I may have tripped over a sweet spot.

While a clean 2005 will likely be a nice bike, you won't spend much more getting on a 2009-2012 and may have better luck.

Maybe we can meet next riding season.

Ted

[DaveCly]

New member currently riding a R1100R I bought in 1995. I am considering upgrading to a RT. Locally I found a 2005 in great shape, 25K miles for $4,500. Should I look at the Camhead 2010-2013 instead? The Wetheads are nice but more than I would like to spend. I live in Idaho and would use the bike for multi day trips. Thank you in advance, all comments welcome.

If you can afford, I’d look for a TC - 2010-2013, I had one in 2013 great engine and bike

[Hchoong]

I have to agree other than 05, 06, servo assist braking is not suitable for any bike. My 05 rear brake just took a dump.