BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

I used these for my wife, great quality and easy fit


http://www.wunderlich.de/shop/en/passen ... ion-3.html

Also my kit came with a new bracket for the brake pedal side to relocate the master cylinder slightly. All excellent quality stuff

richardbd wrote:
maybe it's an American thing!


bebe

I can ride further between stops, because they allow me to shift my foot position around more.  It keeps my old knees from aching from being locked into one position.  I can't ride 150+ miles between stops without having some flexibility.

daverj wrote: I have the quickshifter fitted to mine and it works perfectly just a case of adjusting the threaded bar to suit your new position.  That was the easiest of tasks

Thanks Dave.  Did you have to adjust the brake lever too?

How much of the front ones get left on roundabouts and the like.  I also assume that feet down you have to straddle them.

k9doc wrote: ^
A real iron butt if you can ride for 4-6 days. 3 hours is about my limit before I need to straighten my knees a little.

Yeah I hear ya.  I can do a good 4 hours before I need to straighten out.  When I had the Harley, I rode from Gatlinburg to Lancaster PA straight through for 14 hours stopping only for gas.  Much different riding position though

The brake lever adjusts via the clevis pin where it attaches to the master cylinder. Didn't really require much adjustment

Rwslater wrote:
Yeah I hear ya.  I can do a good 4 hours before I need to straighten out.  When I had the Harley, I rode from Gatlinburg to Lancaster PA straight through for 14 hours stopping only for gas.  Much different riding position though

Sounds like you do pretty well without the low pegs. The problem I have found is that mods you make to improve one situation can make another worse. Having said that the lower pegs haven't produced any unwanted side effects.


I'm thinking more about bar risers which I had on my last FJR. They helped with the neck and wrist pain but made the lower back pain worse. I suppose as the body ages, you are fortunate if you don't suffer somewhere for your pleasure.


The RT, I find is very good in the neck and back departments, much better on the wrists but a little harsh on the backside (butt) after a while. On longer rides I use an Airhawk which solves the latter problem.

RTman10 wrote: How much of the front ones get left on roundabouts and the like.  I also assume that feet down you have to straddle them.

Were you asking about the pegs or the boards?

Originally I was asking about the lower pegs.  But I had never seen the boards until the post and looked interesting but a bit un-BMW but hell my last bike of 7 years was a HD Road King so nothing looks weird to me. 

Rwslater wrote: Originally I was asking about the lower pegs.  But I had never seen the boards until the post and looked interesting but a bit un-BMW but hell my last bike of 7 years was a HD Road King so nothing looks weird to me.

They look better in context of the whole bike, than in the closeup.

I use them on my 2011 RT. Generally ride a brisk pace, no dragging issues, the sides on my feet touch before the pegs, then I know to slow down.

Sure helps with my knees.

CM

GLS4004 wrote: I use them on my 2011 RT. Generally ride a brisk pace, no dragging issues, the sides on my feet touch before the pegs, then I know to slow down.

Sure helps with my knees.

CM

Are you talking the lower pegs or the boards?

I mounted my Suburban Machinery lower foot pegs kit on my 2015 RT this morning.  It was a lot easier than I first feared.

The spring looked intimidating.  It is not.  It is not under compression when the foot peg is down.  When you install the spring  you do not have to compress it.  You do have to center it to accept the plastic collar that slides into it.

On 2014 and newer RTs, if you want to adjust the travel of the shift lever you can adjust the nuts on a connecting rod that is plainly visible inside the left side foot peg apparatus.