BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Interesting read, thanks for sharing

I like to know & understand what work is required on my bike, if the job isn't covered under the warranty, it may come in useful.

David. wrote: I like to know & understand what work is required on my bike, if the job isn't covered under the warranty, it may come in useful.

It looks easy enough 

Any news on whether it's covered by the warranty yet David?

simbo wrote:Any news on whether it's covered by the warranty yet David?

No news from BMW yet.

However, by coincidence, I've just come in from the garage.
Have been through the Haynes manual and identified what needs to be done to remove the FD unit.
A couple of Torx tools require to be purchased.
With the help of a very good friend, I'm tempted to have a go ourselves.

David. wrote:A couple of Torx tools require to be purchased.

There's no going back now, just spent nearly £25 on some tools.

T55 x 55mm TORX SOCKET BIT 1/2" SQ DR, https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-to ... EN5827877K

7 Piece 3/8" Drive Extra Long Torx Bit Socket Set, https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/7-piece ... it-socket/

David. wrote: There's no going back now, just spent nearly £25 on some tools.

T55 x 55mm TORX SOCKET BIT 1/2" SQ DR, https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand-tools/bit-adaptors-1-2inch-sd/t55-x-55mm-torx-socket-bit-1-2inch-sq-dr/p/KEN5827877K

7 Piece 3/8" Drive Extra Long Torx Bit Socket Set, https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/7-piece-38-drive-extra-long-torx-bit-socket/

Good man! every motorcyclist should have a good assortment of tools

The T55 Torx Socket Bit is for the Swinging Arm/FD Unit pivot bolt.

The T40 Extra Long Torx Bit is for the Rear Disc bolts.

Further investigations have revealed that the nut (#07, http://www.rainbowbmw.com/BMWETK/Produc ... 302505.php)
on the Paralever arm to FD unit bolt is nominally 16mm across the flats, (16mm = 0.630").

Not having a 16mm socket, have found some alternatives that are a good fit.
A Kennedy 5/8" AF socket is 0.625" or 15.875mm.
A Halfords 10mm spark plug socket is 16mm across the flats.

A Halfords 16mm open ended spanner is a loose fit, whereas a Draper 16mm ring spanner is a good fit.
Perhaps this just goes to show the quality & manufacturing tolerances of tools, or indeed nuts.

simbo wrote:Any news on whether it's covered by the warranty yet David?

Just had this reply from BMW, "I have checked with Warranty administrator and on checking  under the Insured Warranty the pivot bearing is not a covered item."

I suspected this would be the case, as the Insured Warranty Policy Handbook refers to, "All internally lubricated components within the Final drive".

To hopefully prevent damage to the rear brake disc whilst replacing the Swinging Arm/FD Unit bearings, it is my intention to remove the disc.

This thread from BMWSportTouring (for a Hexhead) shows how to do it, http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/u ... ber=907372, could be useful.

One of my concerns is the limited access to the disc bolts. There is a risk of damaging the FD Unit paintwork.
In order to reduce this risk, have placed some of the PVC outer sheath from a small length of 2.5mm T&E electrical cable over the shank of the long T40 Torx Bit.
Will also put some masking tape on the FD Unit itself.





If heat is required, hopefully a hair dryer will be sufficient.

My brand new replacement Final Drive (replaced under warranty due to paint defects) was duly damaged by the dealer whilst fitting the rear disc. Arrrg !!!.
As David says it's an easy task to apply tape to the Torx Bit or even mask the access recess on the drive casting, but that takes a bit of sympathetic thinking.

Sent this email to Cooper BMW Sunderland.

"It is my intention to remove the Final Drive unit myself & replace the bearings.

If the bearings prove difficult to remove, can you offer any assistance & if so at what cost.
Chris mentioned that a press may be required to remove the bearings.
The overriding factor is not to cosmetically damage the paintwork on the FD unit."

Any reply from Coopers yet David? If it's not something you feel confident doing? I'd be inclined to remove the final drive yourself (easy job) and take it to an independent to exchange the bearings to cut down on costs.

The reply from Cooper BMW Sunderland was, "We would offer assistance if you struggle to complete the repair yourself.

I’m unable to give a cost against you doing the repair yourself as would depend of how far you get to completing the repair."

Hopefully, removing the FD Unit will be fairly straight forward.
I've got a very helpful friend who has exchanged bearings on my XJ650 for me.
If he/we get stuck, then yes, I'll be seeking assistance elsewhere.