BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

If you remove only the “flap” as shown in the first video that won’t remove the problem of a seized spindle with associated operational fault code being logged. The last video shows exactly what I was attempting to describe ie replace the valve assy. with the “straight through” pup piece, leave the motor unit in place plugged into the wiring but with the cables removed. This will allow the motor to go through it’s normal operation but without operating the valve. So there should be no fault codes recorded. When it’s time to change the bike the flap valve can be refitted.
All of the above are fairly straight forward tasks and whilst the is removed any freeing off of the flap can be carried out on the bench at your leisure.

If the valve was seized, removing the flap & cables but leaving the motor in place would mean that a replacement pipe was not required, fixed for zero cost.

I would have thought that most people remove the flap valve in an effort to increase power and torque although the results of this could be debatable. Others may be after more exhaust noise. If I had a spare £30 - £50 I would be tempted to give it ago whilst knowing that I could re-place the valve if I didn’t like the result or I was selling or trading my bike on. Removing the flap only as a cheap fix for a faulty or seized flap could cause future problems at sell on time.

Assuming that the valve is not seized up, when the cables are removed, does the flap spring open or closed.

If it is held open by the return spring, would this have the desired effect of keeping the flap open, simulating its removal.

If the Flap spindle is not seized the Flap returns to fully open with the cables removed, at least mine does.

How about disconnecting the cables & giving it a go.

To reiterate, after I had freed off the flap spindle and removed the cables from the motor end pully the Valve Flap was held fully open by the “return” spring and could be moved to fully closed by light finger pressure against the spring. So then you are correct in saying that in a sceanario where the flap spindle is not seized, removal of the cables will not affect the fully open flap position and the exhaust will be more or less “straight through” .

I think I posted this before but this is a service I try to do once a year for this issue.  I try to coordinate it with rear tire change as most of the work is done at that point and the flap is exposed.


http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/rt-series/171474-exhaust-flap.html

Had the silencer off my 2012 TC RT today, checked the exhaust flow control valve. It was found to be full open with the ignition off & only moved to about half open when the ignition was switched on, before returning to full open. The cables were disconnected from the valve which was found to be partially seized. Using some Halfords Penetrating Oil internally on the pivot points and working the valve by hand, it became free. Checked the actuator & cables were free whilst disconnected, all good. Reconnected & tensioned the cables to the valve and "hey presto", the valve now cycles from full open, to full closed & full open again when the ignition is switched on, happy days.

A replacement exhaust valve is £312.00.

David. wrote: Had the silencer off my 2012 TC RT today, checked the exhaust flow control valve. It was found to be full open with the ignition off & only moved to about half open when the ignition was switched on, before returning to full open. The cables were disconnected from the valve which was found to be partially seized. Using some Halfords Penetrating Oil internally on the pivot points and working the valve by hand, it became free. Checked the actuator & cables were free whilst disconnected, all good. Reconnected & tensioned the cables to the valve and "hey presto", the valve now cycles from full open, to full closed & full open again when the ignition is switched on, happy days.

A replacement exhaust valve is £312.00.

Sounds like you had a productive day. It is nice when you can beat the system.

David. wrote:Had the silencer off my 2012 TC RT today, checked the exhaust flow control valve. It was found to be full open with the ignition off & only moved to about half open when the ignition was switched on, before returning to full open.

Had the bike serviced yesterday, although I'd "freed off" the valve, I was interested to know whether or not a fault code would be showing.
It was reported back that a fault code was indeed showing, which has now been cleared.

David. wrote: Had the bike serviced yesterday, although I'd "freed off" the valve, I was interested to know whether or not a fault code would be showing.
Is was reported back that a fault code was indeed showing, which has now been cleared.

I think if I was in your shoes I would be tempted to remove the valve and replace with sleeve which I believe is available for your model. Then go and plug one of those gizmos into circuit instead of servo motor. Get rid of valve before it gets stuck again. Wish the exhaust pipe design on my LC bike was the same as yours. Glad its all working.

Levisp wrote:
I think if I was in your shoes I would be tempted to remove the valve and replace with sleeve which I believe is available for your model. Then go and plug one of those gizmos into circuit instead of servo motor. Get rid of valve before it gets stuck again. Wish the exhaust pipe design on my LC bike was the same as yours. Glad its all working.

What are the 'gizmos' you speak of? I've got the link pipe and a disabled servo motor fitted on mine and it shows this fault code (pic below) whenever I plug the 911 in. It doesn't bother me it having a fault code hidden deep inside the bike somewhere and I wouldn't be prepared to spend more than £3.50 delivered for the said gizmo, it'd be interesting to know what they are though?.. That 'service' warning on the clocks would really annoy me though  >:(

Have a look at the Exhaust Flap thread. The gizmo I was referring to is an exhaust servo motor eliminator. Apparently if you disconnect the cables from the exhaust valve the servo motor knows that its been disconnected due to excessive travel and reports a F1 error on dash. To avoid this the servo is disconnected and this gizmo takes its place thereby eliminating the error code.


https://www.healtech-electronics.com/products/ese/




Have not done this myself so cannot say what code you get or if this helps.

Found acompany that sell anti seize grease that withstands 1100deg  c.
Will give it a whirl