BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

One last thought. Warning I cannot remember if I did this to my current bike or whether it was another bike but here goes. If you take the clutch lever off you should find an adjustable rod that actuates the clutch master cylinder. If you undo lock nut and rotate rod to make it longer then it will increase the travel of the piston in the master cylinder which will increase the slave cylinder travel and may increase clutch disengagement. Only turn the rod one turn at a time and then test. I did this trick on one of my bikes but I cannot remember which one so take this bit of advice with a health warning. Be careful with this.




Thanks, I'll take a look

Levisp wrote:
Wet / dry clutch the wrong way round. Pre water cooled bikes had a dry clutch like a car they did not suffer from first gear clunk. The water cooled bikes have the clutch at the front of the engine and is a traditional motorcycle wet clutch.

Thanks, absolutely correct and I knew that [emoji37]. I should wait till second cup of coffee before replying [emoji6]  In a case of brain fart I inverted the differences between models.  But fwiw my dry clutch '08 RT still has nasty clunk, as I know others report similarly. 


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Have you checked if the slave cylinder is OK.  If you put it into gear and hold the clutch in, dies the bike creep, if it does, check the hydraulic system. If the bike starts to creep it is likely that the master or slave cylinder seals are failing and require replacement.  You could try replacing the fluid and reverse bleeding the system

bikes with slipper clutches act this way a certain amount, my son's Yamaha R1 would shake the whole bike going into first standing still, my K1600GTL not quite as bad. I have not been able to drive my new 2018 RT yet to see what it is like.