BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Graham88 wrote: The point i am making is that the oil cooler and the rest of the engine will empty if its cold or hot, just at a different rate, whether that is relevant or useful is up to whomever, but it is factual nonetheless. The notion that oil is locked away somehow, isn't.

The horizontal part is very important forgive the analogy but if you take the lid off a tin of room temperature treacle and lay it down on its side (or horizontally, or even upside down) it will take a long time to empty but if you heat it up and repeat it will empty a lot quicker. The procedure is the same for an LC model which doesn't have a cooler, which also implies that heating up is not really connected to the cooler. 

How can oil drain from the cooler if the thermostat is closed? I'm not being argumentative, I'm intrigued! And, if heating up isn't connected to the cooler, what function does the thermostat have? 

I was querying your use of 'especially' in respect of horizontally opposed engines. It matters not what the cylinder layout is, surely.....

Pete

Im not being argumentative either, love a good debate!
The thermostat opens to allow pressurized oil up and into the cooler ad the outlet of the cooler will drop back into the pan by either oil pressure or when the engine is off then gravity, the system is unlikely to be vacuum locked due to the diameter of the pipe although the reduced surface tension from hot oil will help... even when cold the surface tension will break in time and allow air up and oil down. The purpose of the thermostat is the same a water thermostat in a car, if the engine is cold don't try and cool it down.

I would propose that horizontal does mattter because oil pools and the colder it is, the higher the surface tension and the wder and higher the pool. In my example of a horizontal treacle tin, when it stops dripping I guarantee you will still get three table spoons out of it by either scraping it out or heating the tin. But an upside down tin will only give you three tea spoons.

I read somewhere a procedure for my 2012 bike. Put the bike on the sidestand for 10 minutes after it is used (warm) so the oil cooler can drain, then use the centre stand wait again 10 minutes. Now the oil cooler is as empty as possible and the oil level is at it’s maximum. 


On my bike I see a difference in the oil level if i’ve used the sidestand so it sound a valid procedure to me.


P.s. In the user manual only the centre stand is mentioned

Hmmmmm.....again! 

There are numerous cases of owners overfilling with oil, this very thread may well be another! If I drain my engine when it's cold, and feel free to ask me how I know this(!), I get a certain amount of oil out. If I drain it when it's hot, I get that same amount + x out. Where does that x come from and why isn't it accessible with a cold engine? And, if the correct procedure isn't followed, why do we end up overfilled?
Pete

To tell whether the brownish color is actually oil which has filled past the upper level of the sight glass, simply run the engine for 15 seconds or so [size=5px]while the bike's on the center stand.  The sight glass should then show almost entirely the light aluminum color.  After a couple of minutes, check again to see if the darker color is rising.  If so, then the brownish color is the oil (not a discolored sight glass) and if it eventually fills up past the top of the glass, then you've over-filled it. You can then t[/size]ry removing some oil .  You could do this at the filler hole, using a clear flexible hose and sucking it up and emptying it into a clean container, or the messier way of the oil drain plug.  I believe it would take a significant over-fill to present any real problems.

"You could do this at the filler hole, using a clear flexible hose and sucking it up and emptying it into a clean container, or the messier way of the oil drain plug".

I simply took the filter off on the one occasion, many years ago, when I overfilled my ST. There's not much extra oil that comes out of the housing, just empty the filter, re-fit, carry on.....


Pete

David. wrote: Does the sight glass look like this one.



Re: “NEW” 2011 RT, question on oil level sight window

What is the reason for the appearance of the first sight glass?

beemerboy9 wrote:What is the reason for the appearance of the first sight glass?

Photo taken from this thread, http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r110 ... ement.html

It's worth a read, sounds similar to the experience of the OP, low miles, little use without regular oil changes.

BruceInMass wrote:The bike is super clean and only had 4,600 miles on it. I’m the 3rd owner, the first put about 3,200 miles on it, and the guy I bought it from had it for 8 years and only put about 1,400 miles on it. The Florida dealer said the last time they say the bike was for an oil change in 2017.

BruceInMass wrote:Can anyone guess why and what I can do to fix it?

See above post, change the sight glass.

This thread may be helpful, viewtopic.php?t=1

Robbertq wrote:I read somewhere a procedure for my 2012 bike. Put the bike on the side stand for 10 minutes after it is used (warm) so the oil cooler can drain, then use the centre stand wait again 10 minutes. Now the oil cooler is as empty as possible and the oil level is at it’s maximum.

I like this theory, when I get home from a ride, I put the bike on the side stand on the drive before putting it on the centre stand in the garage, then I check the oil level.

If the oil drains down as described above, it's no wonder they rattle on start up until the oil pressure is restored.

This video, (provided by a.n.other),  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-esc1h3Q7E explains about the oil thermostat and why the oil level should be checked following a ride with the bike up to normal operating temperature, then letting it stand for a while so the oil drains out of the oil cooler back into the sump.

I'm now a believer in the oil thermostat theory. Been out and done 150 miles today, the oil was at the top of the sight glass with a cold engine before setting off. Stopped at a pub which is only a mile or so from home. The bike was stood for a couple of hours before I set off home. Once home, the bike was on it's side stand for a good time while I had a shower. The engine was not up to the normal working temperature and the oil is now only showing half way up the sight glass. Will be interesting to check it again in the morning.

I think one issue to be initially disposed of (easily) is whether your sight glass is permanently stained, preventing the "sight" part.  Try draining your new oil into a clean oil pan until (or if) you can see the top level of oil lowering within the glass, then put it back in the machine.  If it never happens, then your glass may be irretrievable stained.  Also, I've found it very difficult to find a level surface anywhere anymore, and have taken to bringing a level glass with me.  If the surface is biased, even a little bit, towards the left side, it will give you a false reading, often totally filled with oil. The reverse is true if biased to the right, and may cause you to over-fill.  I believe that a front-to-rear tilt isn't an issue, since the level will simply rotate in the glass to compensate.  G'luck.

David. wrote:Will be interesting to check it again in the morning.

Checked this morning and the oil level is still showing around half way up the sight glass, adding additional oil would result in it being over full.

This now explains why, in the Rider's Manual, it says, "In order to ensure that the engine oil level is read correctly, check the oil level only after a lengthy trip."

When queried with a BMW dealer, I was told at an oil & filter change, they just put in a measured quantity of 4 litres. This assumes that the engine is up to normal operating temperature and all the oil is drained out, including that contained within the oil cooler.