"If a ‘dry’ installation has been made (for example, the clutch master cylinder, release cylinder or hydraulic line have been replaced) and the hydraulic circuit is contaminated with air from any source:"
Refer to the attached procedure.
Interesting. Basically states that it should be done conventionally if there is no air intrusion ie new master cylinder or lines/components that could potentially have air in them?
I am going to do the reverse fill procedure, that makes the most sense to me.
The clutch system uses mineral oil as David wrote. Do not use normal brake fluid
Trust me I am a retired Doctor and lecturer at Oxford University of Structural and Mechanical/Electrical engineering. "Blessed are the cracked, for they shall let in the light". Groucho Marx
Thanks, I guess I answered my own question, the bottle contains most of the fluid that came out of the reservoir, its a 12 oz bottle so maybe 2oz's? Going to the dealer this morning. I would typically avoid the local shop and order online from MAX, but I want to complete the diagnostic and determine if I am going to be working on my "clutch replacement specialist" badge as soon as possible. If I am going to have to do that, I want to hatch a plan and get it done sooner than later.
I was told by the agency I purchased the first RT-P from that it had a bad clutch and I purchased a clutch disc and some seals and bits to do a clutch replacement before I properly sorted the bike and later determined the clutch needed no such attention. So I am ahead of the curve on the parts if I am tearing into this one.
If in fact it is failed, it is not the worst thing. Having a fresh clutch in this bike will dramatically enhance its value (its the only real question mark on a used RT-P) not to mention improve my confidence and enjoyment of the bike. I bought the bike cheaply enough that economically I will still be far ahead even after the potential clutch work.
**Update** Went out and acquired a couple of bottles of the magic blue gumball juice and proceeded to bleed the system and have the fresh juice fully pushed through the line and topped off the reservoir.
It took almost a whole bottle, but I did buy 2 of course.
Wah wah wah..... no change. Still not clunking into first gear, I can pop it up into second without the clutch but there is barely any friction. It will turn the wheel with the bike up on the center stand but there isnt enough bite to even nudge the bike if it were sitting on the contact patches.
There is a slight what I think is an abnormal chatter when the clutch is disengaged and quiets down when the clutch is pulled in. I can try to get it on video if you think that would be helpful.
Any thoughts are appreciated. While I assume the clutch is gone, this is the first time I am trying to diagnose the issue and would like to make an effort to properly diagnose it prior to tearing it down.
SD1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 6:53 pmThere is a slight what I think is an abnormal chatter when the clutch is disengaged and quiets down when the clutch is pulled in.
That might not be unusual, especially when the bike has been stood idle for a while.
SD1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 6:53 pmI can pop it up into second without the clutch but there is barely any friction. It will turn the wheel with the bike up on the centre stand but there isn't enough bite to even nudge the bike if it were sitting on the contact patches.
I suppose if you remove the slave cylinder and push rod, then the clutch should be fully engaged. If not, it sounds like something more serious is wrong.
