BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

David. wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 9:31 pm This looks like a fairly comprehensive procedure, https://www.ukgser.com/technical/nick/C ... %20on).pdf

"If a ‘dry’ installation has been made (for example, the clutch master cylinder, release cylinder or hydraulic line have been replaced) and the hydraulic circuit is contaminated with air from any source:"

Refer to the attached procedure.

Interesting. Basically states that it should be done conventionally if there is no air intrusion ie new master cylinder or lines/components that could potentially have air in them?

I am going to do the reverse fill procedure, that makes the most sense to me.

Question. Is a 4oz bottle of Vitamol V10 enough to get the job done with plenty to spare?

Thanks

If this is true, the answer is yes, a 4oz bottle should be sufficient, https://www.beemerboneyard.com/magminoil.html

"100 ML bottle of genuine Magura "Blood" blue hydraulic mineral oil. One bottle is enough for one clutch bleed with some left over."

How much was removed from the reservoir, there won't be much in the hose.

SD1 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:53 pmGoing to go pick up the fluid at the dealer.

The genuine BMW part #28 comes up with a 250ml bottle.

The clutch system uses mineral oil as David wrote. Do not use normal brake fluid

Thanks, I guess I answered my own question, the bottle contains most of the fluid that came out of the reservoir, its a 12 oz bottle so maybe 2oz's? Going to the dealer this morning. I would typically avoid the local shop and order online from MAX, but I want to complete the diagnostic and determine if I am going to be working on my "clutch replacement specialist" badge as soon as possible. If I am going to have to do that, I want to hatch a plan and get it done sooner than later.

I was told by the agency I purchased the first RT-P from that it had a bad clutch and I purchased a clutch disc and some seals and bits to do a clutch replacement before I properly sorted the bike and later determined the clutch needed no such attention. So I am ahead of the curve on the parts if I am tearing into this one.

If in fact it is failed, it is not the worst thing. Having a fresh clutch in this bike will dramatically enhance its value (its the only real question mark on a used RT-P) not to mention improve my confidence and enjoyment of the bike. I bought the bike cheaply enough that economically I will still be far ahead even after the potential clutch work.

SD1 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 23, 2023 8:28 pmWill the system fill the reservoir when the clutch lever is in the engaged position.

This simple diagram shows a single spool master cylinder.



With the clutch lever away from the bars (clutch engaged), back filling will fill the fluid reservoir via the vent port.

@David. Could you be any more helpful? I am going to need the name/phone of your favorite pub if you keep this up... : )

SD1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 2:13 pmI am going to need the name/phone of your favourite pub if you keep this up.

Come over to the UK with jackronner, he owes me a few beers too. viewtopic.php?t=6755

jackronner wrote: ↑Thu Mar 24, 2022 10:30 am I've got to stop by and buy you a pint (gallon) o' bitter.

**Update** Went out and acquired a couple of bottles of the magic blue gumball juice and proceeded to bleed the system and have the fresh juice fully pushed through the line and topped off the reservoir.

It took almost a whole bottle, but I did buy 2 of course.

Wah wah wah..... no change. Still not clunking into first gear, I can pop it up into second without the clutch but there is barely any friction. It will turn the wheel with the bike up on the center stand but there isnt enough bite to even nudge the bike if it were sitting on the contact patches.

There is a slight what I think is an abnormal chatter when the clutch is disengaged and quiets down when the clutch is pulled in. I can try to get it on video if you think that would be helpful.

Any thoughts are appreciated. While I assume the clutch is gone, this is the first time I am trying to diagnose the issue and would like to make an effort to properly diagnose it prior to tearing it down.

Perhaps the next logical step might be to remove the clutch slave cylinder from the back of the gear box and check its' operation.



Could the push rod be stuck.

SD1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 6:53 pmThere is a slight what I think is an abnormal chatter when the clutch is disengaged and quiets down when the clutch is pulled in.

That might not be unusual, especially when the bike has been stood idle for a while.

I wonder if the clutch is partially seized with it being so low mileage?

SD1 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 24, 2023 6:53 pmI can pop it up into second without the clutch but there is barely any friction. It will turn the wheel with the bike up on the centre stand but there isn't enough bite to even nudge the bike if it were sitting on the contact patches.

I suppose if you remove the slave cylinder and push rod, then the clutch should be fully engaged. If not, it sounds like something more serious is wrong.