BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

The spindle of the exhaust flap is in the vertical, could this contribute towards road dirt (salt etc.) getting into the moving parts.



How accessible is it to clean/maintain with the heat shield in place.

Is it the exhaust flap that squeaks when I turn on the ignition?


Is this a pointer to future flap failure?

You really need to remove the heat shield to get to the screws that hold the cover on. Once the heat shield and silencer are removed its really accessible. But with mine i can move it about a quarter of an inch, the default rest position is open. When I switch on the ignition the cables try and move but its well jammed. Guess you could remove the two cables that make it move to make freeing it easier. Looking at mine, it doesn't look too bad, sprayed easing oil onto it. But it doesn't seem to be critical, not £1300 critical,  so may just leave it open

You are probably hearing the fuel pump priming.  This design has been around since 2013 as it's also on the GS. Be interesting to see if they are having issues with it.  With only 6K on Casbrar,s bike one would hope BMW would help out.

mhr43 wrote:Is it the exhaust flap that squeaks when I turn on the ignition?

With the engine/exhaust cold, get someone to switch the ignition on/off, while you stick your ear close to the exhaust flap.

I think I might have posted this before in another thread but here goes anyway. The exhaust flap is prone to corrosion due to its position. Overall a bloody stupid idea. To prevent problems like Casbar is having it needs to be kept clean especially in winter. There is no need to remove silencer. Just remove heat shield and then the black plastic cover. Give it a good clean and then paint in with ACF50. Really good idea to do if storing the bike. Unfortunately as soon as you go to ride the ACF50 will burn off. That part of the exhaust just after CAT get mighty hot. However ACF50 left overnight will help to lubricate and stop rust.


Casbar. Try once you have cleaned it painting it with ACF50 and leave it to penetrate. Maybe it will free itself. Good luck.


Alternative is to remove the flap of the valve. However the cables would also have to be taken off. I'm sure I read somewhere that if you do that, then the computer knows it, less resistance on the electric servo motor and so stores a fault code. To solve this there is some gizmo you attach to the servo motor, not sure where I read this but probably over on the UKGser forum. I'm sure Hilltop who remap must have all the info.


If you come up with a solution please post. I'm sure as our bikes start to get older this is going to be a common problem. Why or why did BMW design it as an integral part of an expensive exhaust downpipes. It should have been a separate part after the CAT. Once again it seems the designers think we all ride on dry roads !!!!

DaygloDavid wrote: With the engine/exhaust cold, get someone to switch the ignition on/off, while you stick your ear close to the exhaust flap.

I am almost certain it is the exhaust flap, or the operating mechanism that squeaks.  Is this the start of the kind or problem referred to?

Have been told by someone who uses ACF-50 professionally, that XCP Products, http://xcp-protection.com/products/ may out perform ACF-50, he is considering using XCP.

DaygloDavid wrote: Have been told by someone who uses ACF-50 professionally, that XCP Products, http://xcp-protection.com/products/ may out perform ACF-50, he is considering using XCP.

Sounds like the flap is starting to bind, so yes I guess is the answer. Mine was working fine at the end of Feb, 3k and 6 months later, its stuck solid.

Just heard back, BMW will pay for the exhaust, but I have to cough up the labour to fit, which at around £150, that in my book is not cheap but a lot better than £1300, which is a bargain. So although its a crap design, thumbs up to BMW for helping out. I am confident it would have been a different conversation with Harley if something the same had happened to my old bike

Think you can consider that a result.  It's a shame though that they don't cover exhausts on extended warranty.  Even with max excess of £100 you could have saved £50.

Casbar wrote:Just took the silencer off and the cap to the flap. Its rest position is fully open.

The flap on the TC is also fully open in the rest position (with the ignition off).

When the ignition is switched on, the flap fully closes & then re-opens.

Took the cap off & sprayed the pulley & cables liberally with ACF-50.

RTman10 wrote: Think you can consider that a result.  It's a shame though that they don't cover exhausts on extended warranty.  Even with max excess of £100 you could have saved £50.

I'm very pleased, I was about to take it all apart again and try and free it.

Now you get to see how quick silver can go blue.


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Exhaust fitted yesterday, had to contribute £66 tp the cost. Comes with a 2 year guarantee, so should be good now, as I won't have the bike in two years  8)