BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

My 2012 RT is currently on "Factory Fit" Bridgestone Battlax BT 021, will see how long they last.

The Bike has done 3,000 miles with 2mm to the TWI left on the Front & 3mm on the Rear. Would like to think I'll get a minimum of 5,000 miles out of them.

Need to gain some confidence, that a new pair will do that kind of mileage, with "back to back" trips of 2,000 & 3,000 miles this year.

Any comments or feedback are most welcome, thanks.

My 2012 came with them and I got 6000 miles out of them.


That being said, I was much happier with the Michelin P3's I replaced them with. The P3's really transformed my RT and it is far better motorcycle with them.

[quote author=Firenailer link=topic=1308.msg8836#msg8836 date=1428013618


That being said, I was much happier with the Michelin P3's I replaced them with. The P3's really transformed my RT and it is far better motorcycle with them.



I noticed the difference when I changed to the Pilots. I've said it before- they are superb and suit the handling characteristics of the RT perfectly, in any weather.

Got to agree, Bridgestone's have worked well for me on some bikes, but PR3's and now PR4's have become my tyre of choice and give me loads of confidence, particularly in the wet/damp, which I never quite had with Bridgestones.

BMjoe64 wrote: Got to agree, Bridgestone's have worked well for me on some bikes, but PR3's and now PR4's have become my tyre of choice and give me loads of confidence, particularly in the wet/damp, which I never quite had with Bridgestones.

Joe - you notice any differences between PR3 and PR4?

I took the LC out on the Helmsley TT yesterday- had a steady run there but on the way back I thought I'd blow a few cobwebs off the bike. ( the quickshifter works superbly on full throttle:)  However. Whilst the handling is impeccable,  I felt the front & back tyres slide about a couple of times on the faster bends.  I checked the pressures when I stopped & both were fine. The tyres felt hot & sticky(ish) but interestingly when I run my hand around the tread, I noticed the tread was kind of feathered- very much so on the front. Has anyone else had this? Or any idea what causes this? I've never had this before on any bike.

Chad, is your wear as described on this page?


http://www.w6rec.com/duane/bmw/cupping/index.htm

Chad wrote:I felt the front & back tyres slide about a couple of times on the faster bends.

Are you still on the Continental Road Attack 2GT's.

7vwh- I think it's it. I've just had a closer look and does seem to match the description well. I do corner hard sometimes (and consequently accelerate & brake hard) when the mood takes me so it's probably the riding style as apposed to mechanical fault. (it's a 2014 bike with virtually no miles on it) I've checked the bearings & suspension anyway - no play found. Dave- it is the continentals I'm running. This is interesting- my riding style hasn't changed & yet I've not had this wear latern on other tyres.

After covering 4,682 miles on the BT 021's, with both the Front & Rear still showing approx. 2mm to TWI, I've decided to ditch them.

The reason being that they have started to "White Line" & are not good when crossing "Overbanding" or on poor broken road surfaces.

With the next trip being 2,000 miles, it's time to change & get the benefit of new tyres, rather than hanging on any longer.

After 3500 miles I have just changed my half worn conti's for pr4 s. The main reason is unusual wear on the back. When I put my tyre depth gauge across the side treads one side was 1 mm lower, I wouldn't call it cupping it was more like stepping. The front seemed to be wearing evenly. I did about 100 miles on Saturday on the pr4 s after I fitted them and the bike changes direction much smoother and it seems easier to turn on the front at slow speed. Also my wife thinks the ride seems a little softer. While on the subject has anyone managed to get the rear out without moving the exhaust? The handbook doesn't mention the need to do so.

Bertie my workshop manual states removing silencer first before removing wheel.

The handbook that came with the bike page 124 just says remove studs then roll wheel out towards the rear. It' a pity the exhaust wasn't shaped in slightly then I think the tyre would pass between the disc and the exhaust.

Yes I know what you mean. I think I tried and gave up because I didn't want to scratch anything.