I changed the plugs in my 2012 R1200RT last week.
The torque for the plugs is 12NM which I applied, today after googling some stuff I came across a few posts saying that the plugs should be torqued then backed off and torqued again to the same spec???...anybody do this?...Haynes manual doesn't mention doing this
Chris...
spark plugs
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David.
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Re: spark plugs
Have changed the Spark Plugs on both my 2010 & 2012 TC's, on both occasions, I've installed the new Spark Plug, tightened to the Torque setting & left it at that, did not remove & refit.
(The Primary Spark Plug is removed & re-fitted at 6,000 miles when checking the Valve clearances.)
My understanding is that the Crush Washer is designed to work with the Torque setting.
I've read that the same applies to a Sump Drain plug washer & that if it's an aluminium one, it shouldn't be changed for copper.
This NGK Website, http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/techn ... ng-torque/ doesn't suggest fitting, then removing & re-fitting the Spark Plug.
In fact, it says, "If a gasket type spark plug is re-installed, it should only require a further 1/12 of a turn after it has been seated."
No mention of a Torque setting.
(The Primary Spark Plug is removed & re-fitted at 6,000 miles when checking the Valve clearances.)
My understanding is that the Crush Washer is designed to work with the Torque setting.
I've read that the same applies to a Sump Drain plug washer & that if it's an aluminium one, it shouldn't be changed for copper.
This NGK Website, http://www.ngkntk.co.uk/index.php/techn ... ng-torque/ doesn't suggest fitting, then removing & re-fitting the Spark Plug.
In fact, it says, "If a gasket type spark plug is re-installed, it should only require a further 1/12 of a turn after it has been seated."
No mention of a Torque setting.
Last edited by David. on Sat Jan 30, 2016 3:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.