BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Hi, under the pillion seat there is a round electrical connector that is for the top box? if you fit one. In this connector are five pins, viewed in a clockwise direction pin three is permanently live does anyone know what this is for? I assume it is for the interior light in the top box. I am thinking of connecting an Autocom to this as I don't wish to cut /splice into any wiring, if you have an Autocom fitted where did you power it from? cheers,         

futterweasel wrote: pin three is permanently live does anyone know what this is for? I assume it is for the interior light in the top box. I am thinking of connecting an Autocom to this as I don't wish to cut /splice into any wiring,     

I always prefer my accessories to be powered from an ignition switched source just to be on the safe side 

I appreciate that but as the Autocom turns off when the headsets are disconnected I am not to worried about this, also if there was a problem with the unit ie a short would the canbus not detect this and turn the power off? 

Are you confusing the Autocom with the Starcom which does switch off when headset is disconnected? I wasn't aware that Autocom had this feature. I have the Starcom digital fitted to my 2014 RT LE and it is a marvellous piece of kit.

No I emailed Autocom and they told me this its to save the batteries if you power it from them, also my Autocom has a built in bt module and when you disconnect the headset this powers down.

I agree Autocom turns itself off when you unplug your headset.  However if you also have the BTM02 Bluetooth dongle attached to it, that can stay live.  You would them need a switched live. 

futterweasel wrote:If you have an Autocom fitted where did you power it from?

On a LC RT, a +ve switched live can be taken from the rear Aux. Socket (Red & Green wire).



This is the same set up as a BMW Dealer & I have used on three pre-LC RT's to power an Autocom.

If don't wish to cut /splice into any wiring, BMW Repair Plugs are available, would just need to select the correct one.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=61_2484

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=61_2485

Benchmark wrote:I always prefer my accessories to be powered from an ignition switched source just to be on the safe side.

Me too, this is also recommended by Autocom themselves.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300915885740? ... EBIDX%3AIT
These are great for tapping into the LC accessory sockets. I've done the rear to provide a live switch for my fuseblock (which powers my autocom, pmr radio, dab radio and Bluetooth dongle) and the front spot lights.

I drove down from London to Wales to have my Autocom installed by ex-Autocom-employee Sam Wray at Chainspeed (yes, I'm mad, but he's the only one I trust). He used the Autocom switched relay powered from the battery jump start post for the power feed. The idea is not to introduce any hum from the electrical looms of the bike, because I use highly sensitive in-ear monitors which magnify everthing.

7vwh wrote:These are great for tapping into the LC accessory sockets.

beemerboy9 wrote:He used the Autocom switched relay powered from the battery jump start post for the power feed.

The red wire in the photo which is bolted to the "jumping post", was used to power a horn.

beemerboy9 wrote:The idea is not to introduce any hum from the electrical looms of the bike.

Autocom also recommend, "Normally you will connect the black (negative) wire directly to the battery negative terminal using the crimped eyelet supplied as this is the best earth on the bike. Not using the battery earth is the most likely cause for interference issues."

beemerboy9 wrote:He used the Autocom switched relay.

http://www.chainspeed.co.uk/products/AU ... 7/214.html

"Required for the new liquid cooled BMW's as the can-bus system will continue to supply power when it detects are power draw despite the ignition being off."

This is where a BMW Dealer connected the live feed for an Autocom on an LC RT.