BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Just come back from a ride in the sunshine and found that I couldn't get the steering lock on. The key would not turn regardless of which way the from wheel was facing. I oiled it up and that has not helped.


I have got it to work but that was luck I think.


Will a new lock tumbler do the job?


2010 R1200RT

I would check where the steering lock slots into the frame first.  If you have parked up somewhere and somebody has had a go at the lock by yanking on the bars this can damage the locking pin.  It might unlock but not relock.  If you go to Real OEM and look under Body Equipment the last picture shows all the component parts.  The whole thing in attached to the headstock with two security bolts. The steering lock housing is available by itself.  Try your spare key as well.

RTman10 wrote: I would check where the steering lock slots into the frame first.  If you have parked up somewhere and somebody has had a go at the lock by yanking on the bars this can damage the locking pin.  It might unlock but not relock.  If you go to Real OEM and look under Body Equipment the last picture shows all the component parts.  The whole thing in attached to the headstock with two security bolts. The steering lock housing is available by itself.  Try your spare key as well.

Cheers for this.


I did try the spare key and had the same outcome. Will have a look under it.

On my keyed 1600 and keyless RT you have to move the bars slightly to get the lock to engage, same unlocking

Small update.


The locking slots on the frame look fine no apparent damage.


I have tried to look up from underneath cant see much. Nothing appears to be loose or show signs of foul play. (I know nothing happened yesterday as I was with it.)


Spare key makes no difference nor does normal wigging of the handlebars.


Is seems the key just wont turn it would lock maybe 1 in 10 times now it seems closer to 4 in 10 times.


I have given it a lubing.




Theres not much space around that area to work on. I take it the bike will have to come apart to fix?

It might just be the lock barrel and that's replaceable.  Can't remember how easy/difficult it is to change. Probably the latter.

My lock "stopped working" on my Sept 14 bike.
Took it in and they said you have to move the handlebars.
Where are these people coming from?/???
I've had the bike 18months, so I know how the lock works on the RT, AND I've been riding for almost 50 years, so I have locked a few bikes in my time.
Anyway they "lubricated" it.!!
It's in for its 12k service next week so I'll mention it again.

Ch00 wrote:Will a new lock tumbler do the job?

Not sure if a new lock cylinder will do the job, but could be worth a try, http://www.rainbowbmw.com/BMWETK/Produc ... 1257698201

The lock cylinder may be able to be removed without too much difficulty, could just be held in with a pin.

If the whole steering lock/ignition switch assembly needs removing, the top yoke will have to come off.

Found this photo of an R1150RT ignition switch barrel replacement, the R1200RT could be a similar set up.



"It shows the location of the hole where a pin (or wire) has to be inserted to depress the barrel retaining pin - with the switch in the "On" position."

DaygloDavid wrote:If the whole steering lock/ignition switch assembly needs removing, the top yoke will have to come off.

This is the underside of the top yoke off a 2008 RT, gives some idea of what the ignition/steering lock looks like.

Cool thats a very helpful picture.


To remove the yoke. Take off the handle bars, pop off the BMW badge and underneath should be a big bolt?


If I remove the top yoke will the front of the bike collapse?  Does it need to be supported?


I plan to take off at the weekend as I am nights atm.


Thanks for the help so far :D

I think removing the yoke without really knowing why the steering lock doesn't always work is probably a bit premature.  If it was mine that would be my last resort having first asked my local BMW dealer to have a quick look.  Its not going to cost you anything for their advice.

Ch00 wrote:To remove the yoke. Take off the handle bars, pop off the BMW badge and underneath should be a big bolt?

This diagram shows the top yoke parts, item 3 is a stud which needs to be held with an Allen key, whilst undoing the nut on the underside of the steering head item 12.



The top of each fork stanchion is also held in place by the top yoke, it's not as straight forward as just removing the nuts, the fork top bolt needs to be held before undoing the nut.

Agree with RTman10 no point puling it all apart until you a least see what BMW say. I might be missing something here but was is the deal about a steering lock. Do you need it ? Never use mine.

Must admit I never leave the bike with the lock off, even on the drive. But use it or not a lock not fully working needs sorting before the next notch stops working. I'm nearly positive though that removing so much stuff just to get to the barrel isn't necessary. Just to take the handlebars off you will probably have to take off all the switch gear and disconnect the heated grips and hydraulic brake and clutch lines.

Each handlebar is secured to the top yoke with 3 bolts, once removed, there should be enough free play in the wires & hoses to carefully displace them for access to the fork top bolts, the Haynes Manual also suggests this is the case.

"On R1200 RT models, first displace the handlebars. Note that it is not necessary to remove any of the handlebar components. Keep the front brake and clutch master cylinders upright to prevent fluid spillage and make sure no strain is placed on the hoses and wiring."