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2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 6:44 am
by adewhitmarsh
When to my local BMW dealer Friday, to book bike in for fuel strip replacement, £182.00.I asked about changing brake fluid and was told it was a 3.9 hour job at £100  hour (£400) the sales guy discounted this for me as he could see I was not happy,but it still will cost £220 just for fluid change.

Re: 2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 7:09 am
by guest2360
It's because of the servo.  Special tools are required and it's a long job.  3 hours though seems excessive.  The apparent 50% discount you got seems to get it to about the right price.

Re: 2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 12:46 pm
by dave y
It is a little time consuming but as long as you have the funnel tool, and follow the instructions in the service manual, it isn't really difficult. 
Shameless plug here, but if you decide to do it yourself, I have a funnel I'll sell for $20 including shipping.  (I did the ABSectomy so no longer need it).


Dave


Re: 2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 10:23 am
by JonA
I have done the brake bleed on my 2005 bike many times, it is not difficult but you do need to remove the fuel tank which is also not difficult, but don't do it when the tank is full - the extra weight makes it hard work!

I downloaded a pdf with the instructions and made the filler tool from a small funnel and a secondhand filler cap from a parts breaker (Motorworks). You drill a hole in the cap and stick the stem of the funnel into the hole with a blob of epoxy glue.

Re: 2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 12:47 pm
by adewhitmarsh
Where can I find the pdf file on bleeding the brakes ??

Re: 2005 rt brake fluid change

Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2016 1:16 pm
by JonA
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

The document is very detailed and reading it you might think it's really complicated - but it's not really.

There was an update issued for the bleeding of the control circuits that you only need to bleed from one of the nipples on the control box instead of all three.

On the instructions they are marked in the diagram with green circles and red arrows labelled 1, 2 & 3
You don't need to bleed from points 1 and 2, just bleed from point 3

Also, it's not necessary to bleed the control circuits each time you bleed the caliper circuits, bleed the control circuits every other time you bleed the caliper circuits. If you don't know when they were last done, best to do both.