BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

My last boxer engine bike was the R1200C which they practically ruined by deliberately putting in a huge and heavy clutch plate to make it more like a low-end torque-y V-twin complete with added vibration. Stupid move. So though I've owned a boxer, not used to the proper revs of a 'real' boxer!


Last two bikes were big Harley's so used to riding and shifting at relatively low RPM's. Once breakin is complete, what are the 'best' cruising RPMs for the newer RT boxers? Up-shifting seems to work best around 4500 RPM. That's the sweet spot for ShiftPro, at least. But what do most of you generally cruise at? At what point do you start to consider down shifting when just cruising (not using down shift for engine breaking)? At what revs are we lugging?

Don't  agree with  4500 being the best change up in Pro shift.  Smooth changes is all down to your right hand . Mine is as smooth as butter at whatever revs I consider its right to change and that is often as low as 2500 rpm.

RTman10 wrote: Don't  agree with  4500 being the best change up in Pro shift.  Smooth changes is all down to your right hand . Mine is as smooth as butter at whatever revs I consider its right to change and that is often as low as 2500 rpm.

Interesting... what revs do you typically ride/shift at?


I'll have to play around a bit with it. I read somewhere here back before buying and someone wrote that between 4 and 5k revs was a good shift point for the ShiftPro.


Like most, I've found that the best is between gears 4, 5 and 6. Not as much lower than that.

3-5k good shift points
Always try and keep RPM's above 3k, especially in twisties,

I've found that the pro shift works best when accelerating and decelerating hard, otherwise it can be a bit clunky and better results can be obtained by using the clutch.  As to the revs it all depends on how you're riding at the time - obviously if you're riding hard then you're probably not going to be looking too hard at the rev counter (!!).  Regarding revs whilst cruising i'm guessing the same thing goes - i've tried looking at the fuel gauge to get the best MPG but it depends on whether you're about to overtake or not etc.

Cruising rpm's? That is whatever the engine is turning in 6th gear at the speed you want to run! No worries, above 3000 these things can take anything. Just spent 2 tankfuls of fuel at just over 5000 rpms in 6th gear. If that bothers you, just put some tape over the tach. My V Stroms have run over 6000 rpm for tank after tank on trips. Modern engines just don't seem to mind higher rpms.


Lugging? Most are not sure what that means, it comes from days when engines and vehicles were a lot different. The technical description is a condition where opening the throttle fully does not increase rpm. That means you should downshift if possible. But running around at 3000 rpm in 6th gear with little load on the drivetrain is certainly not "lugging" and isn't killing the engine.

I have found higher revs require more throttle to get smoother shifts, so at low RPM and low throttle I get smooth shifts and higher revs with more throttle...  I do agree with the earlier comment that all on or all off throttle improves the "performance" of the quick shifter.  Hope that helps, Peter

Peter Baker wrote: I have found higher revs require more throttle...

Hard to argue with that!

I am getting confused with this lot.  To change down in Pro shift the throttle has to be closed.  End of story.
You can change up at practically any rev speed as long as you are pulling and that can be just off a neutral throttle.  Needing 3, 4, 5 or even 6 K of revs to achieve a smooth change just isn't true .  Having said that don't bother with it in first or second. 

The process of shifting dose take some thinking and muscle coordination to get the gears moved smoothly. A book I discovered that has some great review insight to the process of motorcycle gears and gear shifting process might just help:


"The Motorcycle Shifting Handbook: Learn the foundations of shifting. Discover the secrets of seamless clutch and clutchless shifting. Don't get a quick shifter be a quick shifter." by Stephon Frazier.


Start reading it for free: http://amzn.to/2alBuGO

RTman10 wrote: I am getting confused with this lot.  To change down in Pro shift the throttle has to be closed.  End of story.
You can change up at practically any rev speed as long as you are pulling and that can be just off a neutral throttle.  Needing 3, 4, 5 or even 6 K of revs to achieve a smooth change just isn't true .  Having said that don't bother with it in first or second.

Agree with everything above, exactly my observations. I don't bother looking at the rev counter, just change when it feels right 

RTman10 wrote: I am getting confused with this lot.  To change down in Pro shift the throttle has to be closed.  End of story.
You can change up at practically any rev speed as long as you are pulling and that can be just off a neutral throttle.  Needing 3, 4, 5 or even 6 K of revs to achieve a smooth change just isn't true .  Having said that don't bother with it in first or second.

Same for me - revs are irrelevant.  Just need closed throttle on down-shift and be under load on the up-shift.  Also agree 1st or 2nd, use the old-fashioned way...

Reason at last. 

One time it shifts smoothly in low RPM, another time it doesn't


One time it shifts smoothly in high RPM, another time it doesn't


I have tried every technique under the Sun to achieve consistent clutchless shifting and no technique performs consistently in 1-2-3 gears.


No, I am not a rookie, in fact, I have extensive driving experience both in motorcycles, trucks and emergency vehicles.


I have come to think that a smooth shifting may have something to do with temp. The hotter the bike the less likely to achieve a smooth shift in certain gears. Also, I have often thought it may have to do with the cycle of the gears themselves, maybe the slave gear is at the right spot or something like that.


Then again, when one person says 'smooth shifting' they may mean something different than another.


For me, the RT shifts a lot smoother than the K16. Japanese bike typically shift really smoothly. At least, the FJR and the Concour did.


I used to baby my RT/s. I no longer do and often tour at 5k RPM and this 2016 wethead just cruise at 90mph
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I never use the pro shift until after 2nd, Think the ratios are to wide from 1st to 2nd