BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

7 days of ownership, 400 miles on the clock...
http://vid1294.photobucket.com/albums/b617/M0PDX/2016%20BMW%20R1200%20RT%20LE/Clip01_zpsrzlqnnyj.mp4
:grave:

Ooooops!

Feck was it icy the bike seemed to spin a lot?

What the hell happened other than the obvious?

Looks like slow riding skills need improvement. Or it was very icy  8)  As long as you weren't hurt, then anything can be fixed

Coming from a GS I am finding the RT quite different to handle at slow speeds; due to the much higher centre of gravity I guess. I definitely need more practice - this being a good lesson to me of that. It was damp, and just before the bike went over there is a change in the concrete surface causing a bump. I think it's that which threw the bike off balance and me with it. Simple over-confidence combined with lack of experience with the bike.

The reason it spun was that as the bike went down I didn't hit the kill switch. As a result what you are seeing is the rear wheel - still in first - pushing the bike around on the valve cover. As you can imagine the cover is pretty badly gouged. Aside from that the only other damage is a slight scrape on the black plastic part of the pannier and some scratches on the tank where my boot caught it as I jumped off - I am hoping that will polish out.

I'm totally gutted. And to add irony to injury, the bike was supposed to be fitted with cylinder head protectors but they are on back order. They should be fitted on Thursday when I go in for the 600 mile service.

Anyone know roughly how much a replacement valve cover will run me to? I'm trying to decide whether to just have the protectors fitted over the top to hide the damage or to do it properly and replace the cover as well.

On a positive note - my new Innovv camera system is working well.

has the RT got a higher centre of gravity than the GS?? i though it would be the other way round.


always have your feet out when driving slow in a car park...

I am amazed the bikes do not have a tilt/tip-over cutout switch to prevent oil starvation and damage to the rider if you get trapped under the bike.

GS RT, same frame, just about, same engine and drive train less suspension travel should result in lower centre of gravity. 
Problem is the extra weight made up by more bodyork, bigger fuel tank and panniers.
You're also lucky not to damage the mirror.  They fold back but the front edge can touch when they fold back.

The RT is very different to the GS. You only have to look at the size of the fairing on the RT, compared to the minuscule offering on the GS, to realise that there is a lot more top weight. On the GS such a huge portion of the weight is down low that it's incredibly easy to move around at slow speeds. I guess the larger front wheel helps as well, giving a much tighter turning circle and faster response. But in the end, it comes down to what you are used to.

Regarding sticking my feet out - yes, that's what I should have done. But I have worked pretty hard on my slow-speed riding skills and as part of that I often work on doing U-turns 'feet up'. Like I said earlier, on this occasion that was foolishly over-confident given the new bike. Lesson learned.

On the kill switch - yes, the last bike I dropped was a Kawasaki Versys and that's exactly what it has. As soon as the bike exceeds a certain lean angle the engine cuts out. I can't communicate to you just how horrifying it was to turn around and see the bike pushing itself around in a circle like some wounded animal.

And this is what the valve cover looks like now...

RTman10 wrote: You're also lucky not to damage the mirror.  They fold back but the front edge can touch when they fold back.

I agree, I was expecting to find damage on the mirror but there is none. I expect that is because I had a heavy camera bag (my medium format kit) in the top box and that most likely helped keep the back end down.

lifting yourself up slightly in the seat can help when slow speed riding. this puts more weight on the pegs and hence lowers the centre of gravity

If you are having the OEM head protectors fitted I reckon they will completely cover the marks.  The cover are magnesium and are EXPENSIVE. I would  just touch up over any exposed raw metal. The pannier lid is easily replaced and the painted top part can be reused on the replacement lid.  A very easy DIY repair.


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RTman10 wrote: If you are having the OEM head protectors fitted I reckon they will completely cover the marks. The cover are magnesium and are EXPENSIVE. I would just touch up over any exposed raw metal. The pannier lid is easily replaced and the painted top part can be reused on the replacement lid. A very easy DIY repair.

Just did a quick google and it looks like £160 for a replacement cover. As you suggest, I reckon I will just put some high temperature over the bare metal to seal it and hide it behind the protectors. But of course I'll still know it's there  :-[

Depending on where the pannier scuff is you could do the same with that. The new rubber protection kit is a permanent attachment and will protect both of them for a whole lot less than a lid.  Once applied the mark will never be seen again.


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