BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Hi has anyone re-painted there valve covers with water based paint? I managed to drop my bike last year and scratched the cover it's not bad but want it sorted. I have asked about powder coating it when I am having my wheels done but because it's magnesium they won't do it, I'm having the final drive painted as well but unsure if that paint will blister with the heat.

I have not, but my guess is that engine block paint would hold up fairly well.  It is generally made to withstand 500 degrees, but I cannot speak to how it tolerates gravel chips.  It might be a challenge to get a matching color.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-12-oz-500-Degree-Cast-Coat-Aluminum-Engine-Enamel-Spray-Paint-Case-of-6-248953/204622226?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D24-Paint%7c&gclid=CMiuzcrCk9ICFcGOfgodwGwNpw&gclsrc=aw.ds

timminator wrote: ...my guess is that engine block paint would hold up fairly well.  It is generally made to withstand 500 degrees...

It's not the temperature that gets it - it's the water.  That's why the average number of engines in a 2014 BMW (so far) is already at least 1.25...

I know this is a dormant thread, but I hope to share my experience with the fellow forum members.


Over the weekend, I attempted to repair my scratched valve covers for my MY11 RT.  Both covers were scratched due to stationary tip overs.  In lieu of purchasing a new set of OE (or pattern) valve covers, I thought I could first try to repair them and save a few bucks.  Here's what I did.


1. Removed both valve covers
2. De-greased them with brake cleaners
3. Used 180 grit sand paper to take out the scratches (mine were not too bad--just pits)
4. Used 320 grit sand paper to smooth out the coarse sand paper marks
5. Sand blasted the painted surface (this step can be replaced with light sanding)
6. Cleaned using water and cleaner
7. Used compressed air to displace sand and to dry
8. Applied one coat of automotive primer (not high-temp.  The ones for body work)--dried for 15 min
9. Applied two light coats of silver metallic paint (Krylon K01403 Special Purpose Paint, Dull Metallic @ $14.62 at Amazon)--dried for 15 min between each coat
10.  Applied one coat of satin clear finish (Krylon K05131307 Satin Finish Crystal Clear Interior and Exterior Top Coat)--let it dry for 24 hours
11. Reinstall valve covers


The result is mixed.  The good news is that the color/finish is almost identical to the OE valve cover.  The bad news is that I did not do a good enough job removing the scratches,  Next time, I will need to spend more than 10 min per cover--another 10 to 30 min of careful sanding could have yielded a smoother finish.  Undamaged areas are virtually indistinguishable from new valve covers.


I will post a photo or two after I have a chance to ride the bike for a bit to show you how it looks and how the paint holds up.  Unfortunately, that'll have to wait, as it's too cold to ride--as a matter of fact, it's snowing here in Massachusetts today, expecting between 12 - 18 inches by the end of the day (on top of a foot of snow last week)  The bike is ready to be ridden now that I have done my routine maintenance (plugs, filter, valve adj, fluid change, etc)  This is the most frustrating time for bike riders in this part of the world.  It's no longer freezing, but mother nature doesn't cooperate.  Perhaps I will finally get to ride it in....late April? 

Took the RHS valve cover from my 2012 RT to Vehicle Smart today. The upper front edge has got to the point where it's a little unsightly with blistering/cracking of the painted finish, probably due to corrosion. Hopefully, it'll come back looking like new, recently, VS did a decent job on the FD unit which a similar colour & finish.

Post some pics when you get it back

simbo wrote:Post some pics when you get it back.

Sorry, too technical for me, will have to wait until the first "Northern Monkeys" ride out of 2019 or the "Annual Meet" at Shrewsbury in July 2019.

I shall have a close inspection. Mine needs doing too.


When they did your FD unit, was it in situ, or did you remove it first?

Sullivj wrote:When they did your FD unit, was it in situ, or did you remove it first?

The FD unit was done in situ, that I was quiet impressed with.

David. wrote: Took the LHS valve cover from my 2012 RT to Vehicle Smart today. The upper front edge has got to the point where it's a little unsightly with blistering/cracking of the painted finish, probably due to corrosion. Hopefully, it'll come back looking like new, recently, VS did a decent job on the FD unit which a similar colour & finish.

where is this? my cover is starting to look a bit off at the from edge.

leonjennings wrote:Where is this?

Vehicle Smart Middlesbrough, http://www.vehicle-smart.co.uk/

Picked up the valve cover from VS this morning, I'm very happy with the result, it looks like brand new. The finish is a shade lighter than the original but I think I prefer it. One point to note is that on this occasion, VS used a satin lacquer rather than gloss as on the FD unit. Looking at the cover, you wouldn't think it had lacquer on, that's the difference it makes.

After another 3 years, the LHS valve cover was looking rather tatty on its' front edge. The paint was flaking off and missing in places. This is probably due to the bike not having had a fender extender fitted from new. Since my ownership, a fender extender was fitted but the initial damage was already done. Now got the cover repainted by VS, it's good to keep the bike looking tidy.

Both the RHS valve cover and final drive unit paint still looks good, no problems with heat or using Muc-Off when cleaning.