BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

I am planning on purchasing a 2017 1200RT and have done a lot of homework on the gear assist option, but am still not completely clear on how it works. I know that at speed I can up shift or downshift without using the clutch.
But how about if I am stopped at a traffic light, do I need to use the clutch to be able to shift into 1st gear?

No you don't need to use the clutch to get into first.


There will however be one almighty crunch as you stall the bike. (Guess how I know that?)


The system is a gear shift assist not an automatic gearbox. ^-^

You will need to use the clutch from a standstill to engage any gear, you should not try to use the assist from a standing start.


When changing up you will find the right rev range for your bike, you need to keep a constant throttle for the smoothest changes, it takes a little practice but you'll get it quickly


Changing down in my experience is a little bit trickier, but again not too tough, as you slow down, close down the throttle completely and when the revs are low change down, if you mismatch the revs the bike will blip the throttle to match them, apply the clutch when coming to a complete stop


Upshifts are really super fast, you will love them


Downshifts are great once mastered, you need to be going slower than you might expect for them to be smooth


As I said, this is my personal experience - I am sure you will receive a range of views on the forum


Good luck

Considering buying a new bike ?  Get a test ride - or two !

Get the salesman to give you a thorough briefing on the gear shift assist, riding modes, cruise control, ESA and everything else, then set off just riding normally before you try out the gadgets.

You surely wouldn't buy a new bike without getting all the gen from the "horse's mouth"  and trying it for yourself  ?

BTW - if you want an automatic, try Honda or Yamaha - they have big tourers with no clutch lever !

The LC has a normal manual gearbox.  Pro shift  just allowed you to change up or down without  the clutch as long as you apply the correct throttle response.  For changing down this is a fully closed throttle.  The bike will always blip as you change.  For changing up you need to be pulling.  Some will tell you this is only smooth at something like 3000 rpm which is rubbish.  Each bike seems to be different but I found that changing up at the speed/revs you would normally always works.  In fact mine would change up on a neutral throttle, no need to be pulling hard.  If the revs are wrong going up,or down it just won't change. 
The system is not brilliant in first or second gear and going in or out of those I always used the clutch.

Agree with RTman10. Pro shift is great from 3rd to 6th going up and down the gearbox. First and second gear just use the normal clutch operation. I find my gearbox is clunky and quite noisy ,but coming from 30 years of Japanese 4 cylinders I expected it to be a bit agricultural.

It begs the question whether pro-shift is necessary or even desirable. A lot of road tests have been quite critical of the system. Before purchasing my LC a few months ago I took three different test rides on bikes with pro-shift and came back unimpressed. After 40 years of riding experience I knew I didn't need a bike with a quickshifter or for that matter keyless ignition, central locking etc which lets face it aren't essentials and are just something else to go wrong. I therefore ordered an SE version with extras that I did want (E.g Daylight Riding Lights) and tailored the bike more to my own needs. I definitely feel better off with a "normal" clutch and gearbox and have found I can change up through the box without using the clutch when I want to, and have no problem at all with changing down smoothly. Judging by the comments above they illustrate the fact that some riders are having to concentrate on getting the pro-shift to work smoothly which defeats the whole point of it.


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Used properly Pro Shift I great and capable of changing gear quicker and smoother than an (expert/road test journalist) could. Many like their bikes to be basic believing extras are only there to go wrong.

It is indeed each to their own situation. Got to say I managed to master gear shift pro which a 15 mins test ride, but we are all different. If I had been buying a new bike, I would probably have bought a basic spec one. But I bought used and picked one up with all the toys including audio, but without keyless. Now if I ever buy a new one, I would spec all the toys, really find central locking useful as well as hear shift Pro. I use mine for blood biking so do a lot of stops and taking things out of the panniers and having to lock them, so central locking is a god send.

RTman10 wrote: Used properly Pro Shift I great and capable of changing gear quicker and smoother than an (expert/road test journalist) could. Many like their bikes to be basic believing extras are only there to go wrong.

It stands to reason that the more complexity on a machine the more chance of technical problems. Always has and always will. It remains for the individual to judge how much complexity is desirable, and really depends on how long you intend to keep the bike. This leads to many owners not risking problems by selling the bike when the warranty runs out. Plus the majority of new bikes in the UK are leased (PCP) which enables owners to give back their bikes after the term expires without having to worry about long term reliability.
I go to the Pioneer Run every year which is for veteran bikes many of which are 90 plus years old. I often wonder how many current bikes you'll see in 10 or 20 years time let alone 90! It's called "Built-In Obsolescence" and is a feature of most modern machines, especially motorcycles!


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It is weird how we all like gear shift pro but have different experience.  Could it be us?  For example if we swapped bikes would our views be same on a different bike.  Could it be speed or pressure of boot to pedal?  FWIW I find downshifts are sweet as long as they are sensible (i.e. not down three gears @ 90mph) and upshifts take more mastering.  Moderate acceleration at 4-5000 work for me.  Biggest advantage is that lack of wrist and hand ache at the end of a long day.

B787MECH wrote: It stands to reason that the more complexity on a machine the more chance of technical problems. Always has and always will. It remains for the individual to judge how much complexity is desirable, and really depends on how long you intend to keep the bike. This leads to many owners not risking problems by selling the bike when the warranty runs out. Plus the majority of new bikes in the UK are leased (PCP) which enables owners to give back their bikes after the term expires without having to worry about long term reliability.
I go to the Pioneer Run every year which is for veteran bikes many of which are 90 plus years old. I often wonder how many current bikes you'll see in 10 or 20 years time let alone 90! It's called "Built-In Obsolescence" and is a feature of most modern machines, especially motorcycles!


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That sounds like a sound judgement, but the bits you haven't got on your bike compared to an LE are not the bits that cause the issues. Main issue seems to be corrosion, exhaust flap (whch you do have), switch gear (which you do have). As for the older bikes, had those as well, but they are mostly like Triggers Broom, nothing much hasn't been replaced, if you follow the same theory with the latest RT, if you swap things out that go wrong, they will go as long as anything else I would think. We have one of our RTP, that is 10 years old and has done 60k, everything is still ok with regular servicing. Some guys in the States have massive mileage on the current RT, so they can do big mileage.

Casbar wrote:
That sounds like a sound judgement, but the bits you haven't got on your bike compared to an LE are not the bits that cause the issues. Main issue seems to be corrosion, exhaust flap (whch you do have), switch gear (which you do have). As for the older bikes, had those as well, but they are mostly like Triggers Broom, nothing much hasn't been replaced, if you follow the same theory with the latest RT, if you swap things out that go wrong, they will go as long as anything else I would think. We have one of our RTP, that is 10 years old and has done 60k, everything is still ok with regular servicing. Some guys in the States have massive mileage on the current RT, so they can do big mileage.

Don't get me wrong, I think the current RT has the basis of a long lasting bike. The killers for me would be things like wiring harness corrosion, Ecu life, electronic suspension units,etc. The unnecessary things like central locking, keyless ignition, and dare I say  Pro-shift, could be a real nuisance ten years down the line.
Corrosion depends mainly on use (I don't ride in the winter and always clean/treat my bike after every ride). The exhaust valve can be dealt with by removing/ fixing in open position and cables removed. Switches can be bought secondhand and fitted easily, but hopefully will last ok if kept dry/lubricated.
I think reliability/longevity depends mainly on type of usage, mechanical know how of owner, and willingness to spend time/money on maintenance. Hopefully, given all this, a RT could and should last a good many years!


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Everything we buy is more complex than it was yesterday not just motorbikes.  If people didn't want things to change and function better manufacturers wouldn't produce them in the first place.  Maybe for those that want a simple no frills bike  a BMW is not the one to buy.  Who these days would buy a car that required you to lock each door individually.  It's the same with central locking , once you have it you can't live without it.

Deja vu anyone?

For me Shift Assist is a great addition to the bike, but it's something I don't use all the time. In traffic it either doesn't work (wrong revs / throttle opening) or causes the bike to lurch. But when 'making progress' it's great fun, although I find it harder work than using the clutch. After 10-15 minutes of frequent up-shifts (obviously interspersed with down-shifts) I find my ankle starts to complain.


But let's set the practical aspects aside. The system is glorious for the exhaust sounds you get when it briefly interrupts the ignition, but apparently not the fuelling, meaning that it 'pops' every time you change gear. Running up through the gears is delightful. Works best on the autobahn of course.