BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 7:49 pm**

Hi Guys, I'm in the process of trying to grease the final drive spline. Unfortunately the spline is ceased and instead of the UJ splitting at the final drive end it has pulled out of the gearbox end! I think my only option now is to remove the final drive assembly completely. There is one very large torx bolt (larger than T50) on the inside (which acts as a pivot or hinge for the final drive) and a plastic cover on the outside (which will turn but doesn't unscrew). Firstly has anyone else had this issue, and what issues will I face by removing this pivot bolt.

Cheers

David

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 8:13 pm**

David
Check out JVB production’s his DVD’s may offer some advice, while directed towards GS models most info also applies to RT’s

Jim

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 8:33 pm**

Hi Jim, yes, I've got the JVB video for the R1200 LC which as you say is mainly covering the GS. Unfortunately it doesn't cover Final drive removal only filling. Cheers David

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 9:08 pm**

Hi David, Have you tried feeding the shaft back into the swing arm with the u/v connected to push it on the splines? Sometimes they go on first go and sometimes it can take 20! I've done it with a few Suzuki shaft drives and it's pot luck as to how long it takes, A torch to see up the swing arm comes in handy, A long thin implement to direct/lift the u/v joint when nearing the splines could help too? It also helps to slightly rotate the shaft when the splines come into contact with each other. Not sure if this is any use with a Bm? but it works on other bikes and saves unnecessary dismantling.

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 9:26 pm**

Toaster wrote:There is one very large torx bolt (larger than T50) on the inside (which acts as a pivot or hinge for the final drive) and a plastic cover on the outside (which will turn but doesn't unscrew).

The large torx bolt is likely to be a T55, the plastic cover needs to be prised out, revealing a hexhead pivot pin.

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 11:40 pm**

Many thanks for the help guys. Is that pivot bolt definitely a T55? Unfortunately I don't have anything larger than a T50 at the moment so I've ordered a T55 and a T60 in the hope one or the other will fit. Since with the Christmas break I won't get the necessary tools until early Jan I will try to get the driveshaft back into the gearbox so at least the wheel can go back on and I can check the valve clearances at the same time. Its going to be a job and a half to get that shaft back in but I'll try a long thin stick and a bit of wiggling...

Does that pivot bolt need to be heated to break the lock-tight?

Cheers

David

Posted: **Sun Dec 24, 2017 11:41 pm**

David. wrote: The large torx bolt is likely to be a T55, the plastic cover needs to be prised out, revealing a hexhead pivot pin.

Thanks David for the great pics.......

Re: 2014 R1200RT Final Drive Spline Grease - Help!

Re: 2014 R1200RT Final Drive Spline Grease - Help!

Re: 2014 R1200RT Final Drive Spline Grease - Help!

Posted: **Mon Dec 25, 2017 8:27 am**

Toaster wrote:Is that pivot bolt definitely a T55?

Based on the fact that the bolt is an M12, (same as TC),  I'd say yes, it's a T55.

Posted: **Mon Dec 25, 2017 8:56 am**

Toaster wrote:Does that pivot bolt need to be heated to break the lock-tight?

Although I haven't done it myself, applying heat may cause damage to the pivot bearings & FD unit paintwork.
I believe that Acetone or similar has been used to good effect to help release thread locked bolts.

Posted: **Mon Dec 25, 2017 6:41 pm**

To help loosen the locktite I would use a Hair dryer or heat gun. Have done this with my K1200LT & 1150GSA FD removals. Doesn't have flame that can cause burning of seals...just need to get it very warm to break the bolt free.

Posted: **Mon Dec 25, 2017 7:58 pm**

Hi Bighopper,

Managed to remove without heating fairly easily....of course it was tight but it didn't present any real problems.

Cheers

David