BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Hello Team new RT owner here and pardon my ignorance.


At what RPM's is advisable to do the up-shift? I have been doing it at around 4000RPM's. I don't want to lug the engine because that is supposed to be very bad.


Thank you very much.

Zapata wrote:At what RPM's is advisable to do the up-shift?

Anytime before the rev. limiter kicks in at 8,500 RPM!

Stop into traffic 3000 is fine, accelerating to highway speeds 5000+

Treat the RT engine much more like the Streetrod than the Fatboy!  The RT and the Porsche-designed V-ROD engines share a similar design ethos.

Zapata wrote:At what RPM's is advisable to do the up-shift? I have been doing it at around 4000RPM's. I don't want to lug the engine because that is supposed to be very bad.

With each model change of the RT, the engine has become more flexible. The answer is not however, straight forward. It depends on road and riding conditions. So for example if you are riding a level road at a stead speed, with a good road surface with no passenger and no headwind, you may well be able to ride it right down to 2500 rpm. However, change one of those variables and the whole thing changes and the revs will need to be higher. The thing is, you will need to get used to the bike and then FEEL if the bike is lugging. If it is, change down.
On my Wethead, the engine is simply amazing and you can ride it at pretty much just of idle and it still pulls along without a hint of lugging. But if you want to accelerate, then ease it down a gear or two.
What I would say, is you will find your engine/gearbox will have a sweet spot and generally I find that changing gear as you reach the upper end of that 'spot' is a good way to be riding the boxer.

In town I use 2000 to 3500.

Out of town I rev the guts out if it to gain engine braking and better acceleration.

At 100 kmh my 2014 DOHC is happy at 6750 revs.

My mechanic gave me a lecture about it carboning up due to the poor fuel standard in New Zealand. He's far happier now that I give it the beans.

Thinking about it, is it a good thing to follow advice from a guy who make a money when my bike breaks down? Now you've got me worried.

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I probably revved my RT more during the running in period than I do now, with a few thousand miles on the clock. Most importantly, don't over rev it before it gets up to normal running temperature, don't allow the engine to get bogged down and don't be afraid to use all of the available rev range when circumstances allow or demand.

Pickaxe wrote: I probably revved my RT more during the running in period than I do now, with a few thousand miles on the clock. Most importantly, don't over rev it before it gets up to normal running temperature, don't allow the engine to get bogged down and don't be afraid to use all of the available rev range when circumstances allow or demand.

+1  ! 

+2

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You could always use the shift indicator assuming you have one, It gives great MPG

My Twincam seems to be happy doing most jobs between 2,500 and 4,000. Only take it beyond 4 when coming off slip roads into 70mph traffic or getting away from a fruitcake in a car. Although sometimes catch myself out being too lazy on a downshift and pulling from 1,500. The engine is extremely tolerant and flexible.

UPDATE:


I have found that the sweet upshift spot is between 4000 and 4500RPM's. Bike pulls hard! I am loving it. Coming from regular HD V-Twins is big difference. Interesting that the 2011 HD TwinCam 96 engine vs 2012 BMW R1200RT engine seems similar. Both are dual pistons and air cooled, the CC's are closed. BMW 1200cc vs HD 1570cc.

The suggestion to change up anytime up to the Rev limiter cutting in is not a sensible one.  The handbook tell you that with a new engine up to 600 miles restrict your revs to 4000.  You gain nothing by winding them right up.

Max. power is achieved at 7,750 RPM, whilst max. torque is generated at 6,000 RPM.