BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

During my annual “deep clean and maintenance” regime I stripped and lubed the Gear Change Linkage. As I had the nearside Footrest Hanger Plate and Silencer removed I noticed that the “flap” in the Exhaust Flow Valve was about 3/4 open. I switched on the ignition but nothing happened. ie no movement . I removed the complete assembly ie valve, cables and servo motor unit. Inspection showed that the flap valve was partly seized. An hour spent cleaning and lubing did the trick and now after switching on the ignition the valve flap go through the normal cycle of closing and fully opening.
I understand that a faulty valve will be recorded on the bike’s memory but as my bike has not seen a dealer for 18 months I could have been riding around not knowing.
For those of us who do most of our own maintenance it would be wise to inspect and visually chech for correct operation of the valve.

Assuming its an LC, its a know problem. I applaud your efforts and being able to get it moving again. But it will seize again unless you keep on top of it. Its a rubbish design and subject to moisture and heat, so it really has little chance of not seizing. I had mine replaced as a good will gesture 6 months after my warranty ran out, bill was £1200, I made a £60 contribution. Also they told me, if you pay a contribution, you get a further 2 year guarantee, if they do it under warranty, no guarantee after you leave the dealer. Yes it throws an error if it doesn't work, some have removed the cables, as the error is shown by the servo not moving. The dealer told me that if BMW wouldn't replace it, just ignore it. Problem with that approach is, although no impact on bike performance, when you come to trade they would know, and if you sold privately, morally you should tell the prospective buyer


I doubt if I will have my bike in two years, so not worrying about it. Hopefully if there is a new RT, they will come up with a better solution, this is costing owners and BMW a lot of money.

Sorry Casbar,



should have said, my bike is a Twin Cam so both the Flap Valve and Servo Unit are easily removed, unlike the WC model where I believe the valve is part of the exhaust, hence the high replacement cost.
Incidently I did lube the cables, pully and return spring when I first got the bike then again a couple of years ago with 1200 degree C grease but that lube had turned to “clay like” gunk, so from now on a clean and re-lube will be a yearly task.

Our Gee wrote: Sorry Casbar,



should have said, my bike is a Twin Cam so both the Flap Valve and Servo Unit are easily removed, unlike the WC model where I believe the valve is part of the exhaust, hence the high replacement cost.
Incidently I did lube the cables, pully and return spring when I first got the bike then again a couple of years ago with 1200 degree C grease but that lube had turned to “clay like” gunk, so from now on a clean and re-lube will be a yearly task.

Ah ok, assume you could disconnect the cables and remove the piece with the flap, thought there was a replacement bit of pipe you could fit, or is that GS only?

Exhaust flow control valve eliminators (bits of pipe),  are available for TC RT's.

My question to the experts.
What’s the impact of removing it and replacing with the straight through joint?

Not an expert, but according to the BMW tech when mine was duff on my LC - His advice, if they don't pay, bosh it out

Thanks Casbar.
Leads me to another question.
Maybe it should be a separate thread but I’ll ask anyway
I only have my 2013 serviced  by BMW. Curious as to just how many do or don’t and go independent or do it themselves

Perhaps you should consider starting another thread as the subject you raise is an interesting one.

This thread about Servicing - Dealer, Independent or DIY, https://1200rt.com/viewtopic.php?t=7 may be of interest.

Unit Garage Valve Eliminator, http://www.moorespeedracing.co.uk/bmw-r ... gLgdvD_BwE

Other suppliers are available, e.g. Motorworks, https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop ... 5_35_JA_57

Cas21 wrote: My question to the experts.
What’s the impact of removing it and replacing with the straight through joint?

I'm no 'expert',, but nothing!  It'll show a fault code on the ECU that can only be seen with a diagnostic tool, I think (from memory) it records a fault every time you switch the bike on and shows the flap or motor isn't responding. The actual fitment of the 'flap' and associated gubbins is for for EU noise regulations in ride by situations, Nothing to do with 'back pressure' or 'low down torque' which the conformers will have you believe.


ps. I'll do some 'screen shots' next time I have the GS-911 plugged in to see if the fault count goes up with each ignition cycle?

Removing the Flap Valve Assembly and the Operating Cables from the Motor Pully Wheel will allow the motor to continue through it’s normal operating sequence but without actually doing anything. ?

Here's a thrifty option, just remove the valve flap & leave the spindle etc. in place, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8sMd6rxOY2I

How to free off a seized valve, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7iNstdAcoc

Another nice video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZdnvlmIs_c shows the servo motor being re-instated.
Presumably, doing this will not produce any fault codes as the cables & valve are purely mechanical attachments to the servo motor.