Keyless, Central Locking, Fuel Filler Cap
Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:03 pm
I've put this in the "electrical system" because I THINK my problem is electrical .....
My 2016 R1200RT LE has keyless and central locking. With the central locking engaged, the fuel filler cap is locked. When the bike stops and the ignition switched off, the fuel filler cap unlocks for a short time to allow refuelling, automatically re-locking.
When my bike was serviced at my local BMW dealer, the tech noted that my fuel filler cap was not locking. A new filler cap assembly is expensive and the filler cap still closes and seals, so I decided to investigate at a later date. I have taken the assembly out, checked that everything can move, sprayed with contact cleaner and re-assembled. No change. Removed it again, traced the electrical lead back to the connector and took that apart. Using a multimeter I measured 12v across the connector which did not change when locking or unlocking the central locking. I'm now stumped and reluctant to ask the dealer to fix it because I worry they'll change the assembly when it may be an electrical (electronic ?) fault.
Any suggestions ??
My 2016 R1200RT LE has keyless and central locking. With the central locking engaged, the fuel filler cap is locked. When the bike stops and the ignition switched off, the fuel filler cap unlocks for a short time to allow refuelling, automatically re-locking.
When my bike was serviced at my local BMW dealer, the tech noted that my fuel filler cap was not locking. A new filler cap assembly is expensive and the filler cap still closes and seals, so I decided to investigate at a later date. I have taken the assembly out, checked that everything can move, sprayed with contact cleaner and re-assembled. No change. Removed it again, traced the electrical lead back to the connector and took that apart. Using a multimeter I measured 12v across the connector which did not change when locking or unlocking the central locking. I'm now stumped and reluctant to ask the dealer to fix it because I worry they'll change the assembly when it may be an electrical (electronic ?) fault.
Any suggestions ??