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Denali Sound Bomb
Posted: Fri Apr 03, 2020 10:30 pm
by Shakleton
I did my research and bought one. It should be plug and play. I only found two slightly off base videos on installing one on my 2017 RT. Removing the OEM horn is straightforward. But as far as I understand it I have now to remove one of the two main frame bolts above the suspension. The supplied bracket uses the supplied new bolt to replace one of the existing bolts. It has to be. If I mount the horn using the OEM horn bolt and hole the Sound Bomb catches the forks and seals when locking left or right, not good. The problem is the limited work area and the torque and thread sealer holding the frame bolts. There is no room for adequate leverage. I can’t shift them so I am stuck scratching my head at the “5 min simples” posts and reviews. What can I do or what am I doing wrong?
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Re: Denali Sound Bomb
Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2020 11:52 am
by Sprintgull
Hi, You don't say where you are, but in UK we have an excellent supplier of all things Denali - Nippy Normans. They supply a bracket which uses the bolts you mention. It is difficult getting much room to work though and I remember having to work the bolts out a flat at a time. The issue I found was that on full left lock the brake line contacted the bottom edge of the horn when the suspension compressed. It was the same with the Stiebel equivalent horn. You don't mention how you are wiring this: The sound bomb draws about 20A so will need to be wired through a relay of via something like a Hex EZcan or the Denali equivalent
I'm about to try the Denali split sound bomb (separate horn and compressor as separate units) which will give me something to do until this Chinese Flu thing has passed by (hopefully) and we can actually ride again.
Good luck
Re: Denali Sound Bomb
Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2020 10:27 pm
by Shakleton
Sprintgull wrote:
Hi, You don't say where you are, but in UK we have an excellent supplier of all things Denali - Nippy Normans. They supply a bracket which uses the bolts you mention. It is difficult getting much room to work though and I remember having to work the bolts out a flat at a time. The issue I found was that on full left lock the brake line contacted the bottom edge of the horn when the suspension compressed. It was the same with the Stiebel equivalent horn. You don't mention how you are wiring this: The sound bomb draws about 20A so will need to be wired through a relay of via something like a Hex EZcan or the Denali equivalent
I'm about to try the Denali split sound bomb (separate horn and compressor as separate units) which will give me something to do until this Chinese Flu thing has passed by (hopefully) and we can actually ride again.
Good luck
Hi many thanks for the info and encouragement. A good nights sleep, a clear head and a better and larger ratchet and success. As you say there is little room. My issue was tackling the nut rather than the head of the installed Torx bolt. Working down from the steering head a tiny turn at a time and I shifted the OEM bolt. After that installing the Denali was as they suggested very straightforward. The horn sits under the head and back from the forks on the supplied bracket ( from Twisted Throttle via Nippy Norman’s). It is clear on full lock left and right. The supplied short lead with two spade terminals and a socket plugs straight back into the BMW wiring, a straight swap. It all works. And yes, as others have noted, it is very loud. Just what I want to get drivers attention, we have a lot of distracted elderly drivers in my part of the UK.
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