Alarm Operation 2011 Twincam

[Our Gee]

Hello all,
my recently acquired 2011 Twincam RT came without any documentation. I am in the process of building up the bikes service history (which is good) with help from my local BMW Dealer, hence my requirement of of Rider's Manual as highlighted elsewhere on the forum.
I have had a look through an online Manual (courtesy of David's link) but can't find any info on the BMW Alarm. Maybe the alarm is covered in separate book.
My bike does have the the Alarm located under the rear carrier position and this does look to be in good condition. I also have two Alarm Fob's which came with the bike. I have tried pressing the two buttons on the Fob's (the fob light flashes) but nothing happens on the bike. Please can anyone offer guidance as ton the correct way to operate the alarm.
Thanks.

[David.]

This manual is for a DWA6 alarm, don't know what's fitted to your bike.

https://www.bmwk.nl/webPaginas/literatu ... sDWA-6.pdf

Are the batteries in the unit on the bike & fob healthy.

"The battery in the remote control is due to be changed after approximately 2 - 3 years. You can tell that the battery is weak if the LED does not light up or lights up only briefly when a button is pressed."

Alarm battery replacement, https://touron2wheels.wordpress.com/201 ... ion-alarm/

[simbo]

It is in a separate book, Williams of Manchester printed off all 19 pages of it for me, I'll post pictures of the useful ones.
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[simbo]

Hope this is of help.
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[Our Gee]

Many thanks for that Simbo. Much appreciated.

[Our Gee]

I decided to go ahead and check the batteries contained in the Alarm Unit. The link in David's post "Alarm Battery Replacement" is useful as it shows the battery location within the alarm. On my own bike the alarm unit is oriented across the frame and not longitudinally. Also I do not have the metal plate above the Alarm Unit.
It is possible to remove the alarm top cover and battery compartment cover with the unit secured in place on the bike but this is very awkward and risks damage to the battery attachment wires.
I have removed the Rear Rack / Hand Grab unit from a previous RT and although this looks to be a straight forward task PLEASE BE AWARE that removal of the two Torx screws which are located up inside the rear Frame tubes can be very tricky. These screws locate into "encapsulated" brass bushes which are a "spline" fit into the plastic rack. When the bikes are built these screws are obviously assembled "dry" and when screwed in there is 3 or 4 treads which protrude through the brass screwed bush which over time will corrode. On a previous removal (2008 Hexhead) both screws came out ok, albeit with plenty of soaking in release oil.
On this occasion the left side screw decided to seize after a couple of turns and any increase of force would have damaged the spline to plastic integrity.
Therefore it was necessary to cut through the screw with a thin junior hacksaw blade, remove the rack and drill out the screw. The brass bush survived with only a " thread clean-up" required. The chap in David's link recommends using copperslip on re-assembly and this is good advice.
With the Rack removed it was easy to completely remove the alarm unit for battery checks on the bench. My batteries measured 3.4 volts which did surprise me as I expected them to be in a poor state. The expiry date being 01-2022. I had already ordered replacements so I will fit these when they arrive do some more checks and see if I can get this alarm to wake up !!.
If I decide to permanently remove the alarm does anyone know if it is necessary to fit a jumper block to the alarm wiring plug like those provided with the Datatool alarms fitted to Triumphs.
Thanks.

[David.]

If I decide to permanently remove the alarm does anyone know if it is necessary to fit a jumper block to the alarm wiring plug.

Looking at the Haynes manual wiring diagram (7.31) it says,

"Note - where anti-theft/tyre pressure control unit is not fitted, the CAN bus is terminated with a terminating resistor."

Then, this thread from Adventure Rider suggests you don't need one, https://advrider.com/f/threads/alarm-on ... gs.635735/

But this BMWMOA thread says you need a 120 ohm resistor, https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.ph ... -DWA-error

For £6.44, why not err on the side of caution, see #5, https://www.online-parts.co.uk/bmw-bike ... nth=04#sub

[Our Gee]

Thanks for that David, I take it that the "Terminating Resistor" (item 5 on the link sketch) slips onto the plug which is disconnected from the Alarm Module.

[David.]

I take it that the "Terminating Resistor" (item 5 on the link sketch) slips onto the plug which is disconnected from the Alarm Module.

I would certainly think so, could always check on mine.

[Our Gee]

Yes please. Incidentally, that "On-Line Parts" site is not the easiest to navigate. How on earth did you manage to find the Alarm page ?.

[David.]

Found this photo, it shows the wiring adjacent to the rear aux. socket wiring, ignore the posi taps.



Another photo showing the same set up, the plug with two wires is the rear aux. socket.



This video might be helpful too, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkutmISevJM

[David.]

This thread from Adventure Rider isn't particularly clear but may suggest that removing the alarm & fitting a 120 ohm resistor might require the bike's computer to be updated, best check with the dealer. If the alarm isn't causing any problems, perhaps it's better to just leave it on the bike.

https://advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-alarm-issues.543796/

[Our Gee]

Many thanks for the further info David, little bits of knowledge added all the time. Of course what I really would like to see is a picture showing a Twincam RT without an Alarm and the 120ohm Resistor in place. I take it "on board" that the retro fitting of the Resistor and removal of the Alarm may or may not require a visit to the Dealer to have some "Dark Side" adjustment made so I'll make some enquires in that respect.
Incidentally, my own Alarm although identical to the one pictured above (the pic showing the internal batteries) does not have the DWA6 marking anywhere, just MetaSystem, a lot of numbers and the BMW Motif.
Once again, many thanks for your efforts.

[David.]

A 2011 Camhead with a DWA fitted.


A 2012 Camhead without DWA but a 120 ohm resistor fitted.

[David.]

A 2011 Camhead with DWA now removed and replaced by a 120 ohm resistor.