BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

I started to discuss this on another thread but rather than hi jack that one....


So I have bought a Keiss jacket and it looks like the accessory socket isn't man enough for this so I am going to install the battery cable supplied with the jacket. The connector for the jacket is on the left hand side so thats the logical place for the connector? Anyone fitted one and used it ? Any tips? I have the SE model d so the buttons on the left hand fairing are blanks, if i can get a panel mount socket...... just an idea.
Also I have seen another post where it showa a live post beside the battery.... should I connect the positive to this rather than the battery direct? Obviously lookig for the minimum of dismantling with regars to panels etc....


cheers
Gavin


ps, think I got a good offer on this direct from Kiess, free controller worth £35.. plus a wee discount if anyone is interested.

Gavj wrote:So I have bought a Keis jacket and it looks like the accessory socket isn't man enough for this.

Keis themselves confirm this is the case, https://keisapparel.com/products/heated ... emium-j501
"SPECIAL NOTE - You are unable to power this heated garment using a cigarette lighter/DIN power lead on a BMW motorcycle, due to the 5Amp limit to their DIN power socket (the jacket draws 5.5Amps)."

Gavj wrote:I am going to install the battery cable supplied with the jacket. The connector for the jacket is on the left hand side so that's the logical place for the connector? Anyone fitted one and used it ? Any tips? I have the SE model so the buttons on the left hand fairing are blanks, if I can get a panel mount socket, just an idea.

On my 2012 Camhead, the Keis power lead is bolted directly to the battery. The male connector on the jacket isn't very long, without an extension lead, it's most unlikely to reach the button blanks on the LHS fairing. IMO, having the female socket coming out between the seat and tank is a convenient place. The heat controller can be mounted on the tank, rather than stuck in a pocket which isn't accessible on the move.

Gavj wrote:Also I have seen another post where it shows a live post beside the battery, should I connect the positive to this rather than the battery direct?

My understanding is that this auxiliary (+ve jumping post) goes to the battery, therefore, shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks David, with the socket between the seat and the tank.... is there any marking of the paint evident.... bike is still too new so I am being too careful... that will change in a while :not:


Any tips on routing the cable, I havent even had the seat off so dont know what I am looking at, if its not below freezing tomorrow i will have a poke around.

2017 MY 10amp for both sockets will run one jacket.  Have wired to battery now as wife has jacket as well. Use live post no need to remove battery run lead under seat and out nearside of seat tuck back in summer. Date time need resetting just go for ride with Nav will do itself.

Gavj wrote:With the socket between the seat and the tank, is there any marking of the paint evident.

On my 2012 Camhead, the tank bag rail covers the tank. I also have a square of paint protector fitted on top of that. It's most unlikely that the wire/socket will mark the tank.
If it's a concern, something like this NN paint protector set might be an idea, https://www.nippynormans.com/paint-prot ... t-7-pieces

Gavj wrote:Any tips on routing the cable, I haven't even had the seat off so don't know what I am looking at.

Once the seat is removed, I'm sure a cable route inside of the frame tubes without removing any panels other than access to the battery will be possible.

Hi Gav, I connected directly to the battery and ran the fused lead under the seats across the bike and out next to the front seat release lock on the left side of the seat.  Very easy once you have both seats off.  Be very careful removing the heated seat cables connections, the locking tabs are brittle and the cable length is not very generous. 


I did this primarily for my passenger to have easy access to the connection.  The good part of this location is that I can use it too when riding solo.  Fit a 10 Amp fuse and you can also use it to power up an air compressor (airman tour).

Thanks guys, cant wait to get back out again......

OK, so job done, havent been out for a run but wiring installed, jacket pluuged in with me sitting on the bike... all good. I went for 42" size, my actual chest measurement is slightly less than that with a fleece on. With the Keiss jacket and my oxford jacket on top and a fleece it was a bit michelin man, so I recon without the fleece or without the oxford jacket liner it will be fine.




I fed the connector behind the frame rail to the rear of the battery and then up to under the seat, from there I went across between the tank and the seat mount. I tye wrap'd the cable at the frame rail and on both sides of the seat mount. I left about 8" of lead hanging out just below the seat which is enough to tuck the socket in between the tank and the seat when not in use and also allow you to dismount or stand up on the pegs.


Conneted up to the neg terminal of the battery and the live post. Tucked the fuse holder up behind the frame rail above the battery.


I had to remove the seat (disconnect the heater plug), the small rectangular panel and the side cowel which covers the battery. All easily done, seat ..... dont need to explain, small panel just pops off with push fit lugs, cowel is 3x T25 Torx screws. All three of the screws are the same so you cant get it wrong putting them back on.


The only warning I would give is be carefull with the positive post when remvoving, remember your tools will be live when touching it if you havent removed the negative wire, so be very carefull about touching any metal parts. The proper way way would be to disconnect negative first, I would advise that you do this. I didn't because my alarm is on auto arm and I couldnt be bothered cahnging it. On relection I should have.....


The controller hangs down past my Oxford jacket on the left side so seems easy enough to get to on the move. Thought it wasn't working at first but you need to press the controller for 2 seconds to switch on. Should have read the instructions first 

better picture of the live post, complete with red cover

Gavj wrote: better picture of the live post, complete with red cover

Mine is wired up much the same.


I am a luddite still running a wired Autocom Rider-Passenger Intercom. Therefore I need to have one of these socket holders permanently mounted at the rear of the tank. In the winter I pull the Keis connector from under the seat and run it through the holder so that it always to hand. You might be able to find something similar but less bulky to suit your needs.


Congratulations on the 1250!

Gavj wrote:With the Keis jacket and my Oxford jacket on top and a fleece it was a bit michelin man, so I recon without the fleece or without the oxford jacket liner it will be fine.

Since getting Keis heated kit, I've removed the liner from my Alpinestars jacket. I started off with a heated vest, then a bodywarmer. I found that my arms got cold, therefore ended up with a heated jacket. (I do feel the cold and don't ride in the winter). You may find with the heated jacket cranked up, if you wish, you could ditch the fleece too.

beemerboy9 wrote:You might be able to find something similar but less bulky to suit your needs.

I used some of these Halfords adhesive cable clips to secure the two core heated kit wire and controller to the tank rail.

I think eventually I will set up a socket on the left fairing and a coiled lead from the jacket. I think Ill do  few miles first to see how I get on. Would be good to have the controller on the bars as well....

Gavj wrote:Would be good to have the controller on the bars as well.

Keis use to do a remote handle bar mounted controller, looks like it may now be discontinued.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lewylbZ0rbs

@ David, that looks ideal, had a look at their website and it doesnt appear so looks like your correct..... pity