BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

Having some issues with my 2010 R1200RT.  So a couple weeks ago I did a 1000 mile trip from Denver back to Chicago after several days of riding in Denver in rainy and colder conditions. About 100 miles from home when pulling off the Interstate for gas I had some difficulty getting from 3rd to 2nd and had to remain in 2nd moving around to pump. It felt like the shifter was failing to return to the “neutral” position, maybe like the linkage was stiff. After fueling I was able to work the shifter up and down with my hand and get back into 1st and I continued home. I didn’t need to do too much more downshifting to get home but I found that after getting down to about 3/4 I would sometimes have to lift the shifter a bit with my toe to be able to downshift as again the shifter seemed to not return when to the middle position when downshifting below 4th and especially from 3-2 and 2-1. To me it felt like the linkage was sticking (2 ball and socket type joints connect lever to trans as I can tell). I ended up spraying these joints and the linkage with some PB Blaster and letting it soak in after several days of this issue. After that the shifting seemed to be smooth and back to normal. Riding almost daily for a week all was fine and shifting was smooth and even downshifts at stops to 1st were smoother than before. Today after not riding for about a 8 days the shifter again was acting up, both not returning to the “neutral” position when downshifting and the shifter seeming to stick at a higher position when upshifting. It’s again as if the linkage is sticking or binding or like a return spring is missing. As far as the actual trans operation, it seems normal except for the shift lever seeming to stick and not release unless I give it a nudge or even hit some bumpy roads. I’m considering trying to lubricate again and see if that works and maybe something more lasting than the PB Blaster that may have dried and lost the lubricating properties after the week of non use. Anyone have any experience with a similar problem or any ideas. About 82K on bike.


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First thing to do is to carry out a strip / clean and lube of the four bearing points associated with the Shift Mechanism. These are the two Ball and Sockets at the ends of the Screwed adjustment Rod and the two Shaft Support Bushes. I have recommended this simple and very worthwhile task before on this Forum but so far no one seems interested. Access is reasonable after removing the Left side Footrest Support Plate. Removal of the Safety Clips which secure the Ball / Socket assemblies can be a little tricky for a first timer but soon becomes routine. First ease the circular part of the Clip out of the location groove on the Socket with a small Screwdriver , then pull the Clip up using long pointed nose pliers. Just be careful not to drop them as they do tend to "Disappear" !!. After such a high mileage check the Ball / Socket assy. for signs of wear, also the two Shaft Bushes. All of these parts are available at reasonable cost. For lubrication I use Lucas  Red "N" Tacky Grease but any Lithium Assembly Grease will be fine. Hopefully this will solve your problem.

Thanks for the reply. I forgot to post a follow-up after I did another inspection of shifter with plan to do a more complete lubrication. I found that the attachment point that is welded to the frame has broken near the weld. I'm certain this was not the condition last time when I lubricated it but maybe there was some extra stress on this point due to lack of lubrication on the linkage. At least one or two other riders have experienced the same issue and they were able to have the mounting point welded back in place. I plan to do the same as well as service and lubricate the linkage after inspection. I ordered some replacement bushings and parts that appear to be worn. This mount point is welded to the rear frame so no plans to replace frame, weld it or figure out a fix that will work.

Never seen or heard  anything like that before. That would have taken some force to fracture that bracket like that. I do appreciate that it would have been difficult to take pictures in that location. I take it that the fracture involves the "inner" shaft bearing mount ?. If so it is different to mine (2011 RT). With mine the Inner Bracket is welded to the Frame "cross tube"  with a circular weld (around about 50% the tube) not a straight fillet as shown in your picture. Maybe I haven't fully understood the orientation so I'll have another good look tomorrow.

On the BMWMOA forum there was at least one and maybe 2 others who had a similar fracture and from the photo it seems the same. I’ll be removing the foot peg kickplate soon and I’ll see if I can get any other photos. Any pictures on the fiche or photos of frames online and it’s hard to see this part. Mine is an early 2010 so like the update from fuel strip to float in late 2010 they may have  modified this if they had some issues on earlier years but haven’t seen many others say they have this issue.


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