BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

For those doing their own maintenance, does anyone have a recommendation on a make/model for a torque wrench? Digital or mechanical?
Mechanical click types are cheaper than digital, but many don't have low enough ranges - most regular 3/8 inch only go down to 10ft lbs which is >13NM.
Suggestions appreciated!

I have a pair of Clarke mechanical ones.  One 1/4" drive for smaller values and a 1/2" drive for everything above 25Nm.

[size=2px]https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040210674/[/size]
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[size=2px]https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht141- ... ue-wrench/[/size]

I've got two Norbar click ones, they have versions for all different ranges so bound to have one to cover what you need.
https://www.norbar.com/products/view/ns ... y_multid/1



I've used ones with meters rather than click and don't like them - you have to be able to see what is going on whereas with click ones you don't which means you can use them easier in awkward places.

Norbar 6 - 40 lbf ft or 10 - 55 Nm

and

Halfords 30 - 150 lbf ft or 40 - 200 Nm

both 1/2" square drive, mechanical.

(The Norbar one is ok for valve cover bolts).

Norbar for the big stuff and Halfords Advanced for the small stuff.

The type doesn't make a whole lot of difference. Some are more convenient than others. But I would highly urge you to make sure that it measures in Newton meters. You will be much more unlikely to make errors in calculations.

I use one of these for the small stuff https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-to ... x-10/9252v

For small torque values 2-24 nm I use this one that I bought for my pushbike, just under £30.


https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set-1

This is what I use


Small
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040218635/


Medium
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke- ... tronic-to/


Large
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/
Plus another sealey click torque wrench

I have a MannesMan 1/2" (10-210 NM)  and a Pro 1/4" (0-20 NM).

I purchased both in the Netherlands.

A few years ago a Professional Bolt Tensioning and Torqueing Technician gave me some good advice about Torque Wrench usage. One of the main points he warned me about was applying a given Torque value without checking if this value should be applied to Dry, Oiled, Greased, etc, threads. For example, setting a Torque Wrench to, lets say 60Nm,( Hexhead and Twincam Rear Wheel Bolts ) then smothering the Bolt Threads with Copperslip can result in overtightening by 20%. I have yet to come across a Workshop Manual which states what the Thread Condition should be before tightening. There are a few videos showing BMW Boxer Engines being assembled at the factory and as far as I could see all threads where dry.

Our Gee wrote: A few years ago a Professional Bolt Tensioning and Torqueing Technician gave me some good advice about Torque Wrench usage. One of the main points he warned me about was applying a given Torque value without checking if this value should be applied to Dry, Oiled, Greased, etc, threads. For example, setting a Torque Wrench to, lets say 60Nm,( Hexhead and Twincam Rear Wheel Bolts ) then smothering the Bolt Threads with Copperslip can result in overtightening by 20%. I have yet to come across a Workshop Manual which states what the Thread Condition should be before tightening. There are a few videos showing BMW Boxer Engines being assembled at the factory and as far as I could see all threads where dry.

Interesting. I use and agree with this method, and funnily enough nothing has ever fell off my bikes (up to yet :-).. But if you're not greasing/oiling or adding any sort of lubricant to the mating surfaces where the Nm pressure is valued from ie flange of the wheel bolt or hole in the wheel where the two surfaces have any pressure on them and just the threads to stop them seazing or thread lock to stop them coming undone, why should it alter the Nm value?.. Just asking because I'm unsure and wouldn't mind a definative answer.

I always thought is was due to less friction on the lubed thread compared to the dry thread. Even when you tighten a bolt onto a contact surface the rotational force to tighten must be less if the threads are lubricated. I have always reduced the torque by 10% for greased threads and never had any problems. My bike from new every thread was dry. I use Corrosion Block grease on threads and only use copper slip where there is heat. I was also told when using a torque wrench to use a smooth force and stop at first click. Don't double check with successive clicks. Maybe an engineer here can validate if this is true or not.

Nice to see that this "Dark Subject" is at last generating some interest. I have tried to raise interest and comments in the past but without response, so thanks chaps.
If we use the RT Rear Wheel Bolts as an example there are two locations where "Friction" will be a factor. First there is the Thread to Thread contact and secondly there is the Cone to Cone contact where the tapered part of the Bolt seats into the tapered part of the Wheel Hub bolt holes.
No doubt Manufacturers Engineers / Designers will have determined the amount of Torque needed to achieve a sound assembly without being under tightened and the risk of loosening during service and over tightened and the risk of material failure.
There are quite a few Charts / Tables available which give a guide to Torque Values for a given Bolt size but these are only "General" and consideration must be given to the materials involved. For instance, when a Steel Bolt is being inserted into an Aluminium casing.
I will attempt to include a section of one of the available Torque Charts shortly where one can see the difference clearly listed between Dry and Lubricated Torque values.