BMW R1200RT/R1250RT Forum

2011 camhead - dry clutch.
Gear change from N to 1st, 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are "clunky". The bike doesn't creep when revved in gear with clutch in so I am guessing it won't be oil contaminating the clutch plate. I'm thinking the synchros on those gears have been abused? It's only done 44000kms so it was it must have been some serious abuse. I test rode a very low km RnineT and it exhibited much the same clunkiness. Is it a BMW thing? Anyone have that problem before?

Marvin2Shoes wrote: ↑Sat Nov 26, 2022 4:31 amIs it a BMW thing.

Not on my 2012 Camhead. Sometimes when shifting for N to 1st, have to check the gear indicator or let the clutch out to the biting point to check that it is in gear.

It always goes into gear... It's just that there's a clunk as it goes into gear. It seems quite agricultural compared to the refined smoothness of Japanese gearboxes. If it's normal then I'll just be gentle on the shifts as I have been since I purchased the bike. It has done about 4500 kms in the last two months and hasn't missed a beat.

Sorry, perhaps I didn't explain myself very clearly. It goes into gear (N to 1st) without clunking, hence checking. This is particularly the case when setting off from cold.

So clunking gear changes are definitely abnormal then... The guys with wetheads seem to have this issue which is normal for them.

My 2012 Camhead doesn't have a clunky gear change.

I was once outside my local BMW dealer, when a guy was picking up his Wethead which had just had the gearbox changed because of a poor gear selection problem. The replacement was no better, he took a video of mine to show the dealer how it should be.

Personally I have never had a Japanese bike that "Did Not" clunk when selecting 1st from neutral. In fact to call the noise a "Clunk" is being kind more like an almighty crash. My Fireblade was so loud that passers by where startled. My recent Triumph Sprint 1050 GT was no better. My experience with BMW RT's which is quite lengthy is varied. My Hex head and two Twincams all had slightly different gear change actions, my previous Twincam being the best. There are techniques which can be mastered over time to achieve an acceptable and quiet change going down the gears. (Upward changes have never been a problem being quiet and positive). Like David says engaging 1st from neutral is so smooth that I too adopt the technique of only partially withdrawing the clutch lever so that I can feel the positive engagement. You do mention Syncro's in your 1st post which is puzzling as no Motorcycles I have come across have "Syncro Mesh Gear Boxes". One thing that is generally sited as a cause for what "some" find to be an "agricultural" gear change action is the Boxer Engines up to and including the Twincams run an Engine Speed Clutch. (Not sure about the W.C. Engines).

Wetheads have a slipper clutch.

David. wrote: ↑Sun Nov 27, 2022 7:17 pm Wetheads have a slipper clutch.

Thankful, don't ask how I found out that the previous model didn't...

My 2012 CLUNKS when I change gear.

I came from a slick Honda CBF600, which glided into gear by comparison. You learn to get used to it, but I was told by the dealer and my independent mechanic "They all do that".

I had assumed that a motorcycle employing a single-plate dry clutch running at crankshaft speed powering a shaft final drive would have a synchro gearbox too, like a car... After reading the manual it appears this isn't the case. Now I see why BMW gearboxes are more 'agricultural'. From memory Japanese gearboxes employ a slower speed secondary shaft to drive the clutch plus multiple 'wet' plates to provide a smoother transition between gears.
Well that clears up some of my earlier misconceptions. I will attempt to modify my clutch use to optimise smoother changes in future.
Thankyou very much to all who commented.