simple wire color table

[Strat Tuner]

I've googled and searched this forum for a simple color table for wiring.

I'm putting in the chip that flashes the brake light(s).
I'm also changing all the tail bulbs to LED lights, so that will require resistors.
Under the seat seems a good choice for the flash chip and the resistors.

I understand there is no "Flash controller" to replace, so the resistors will fool the onboard computer into thinking the old incandescent bulbs are still there and working.

I was hoping for something like:

R signal = Green
L signal = Yellow
<Ground>= Black
Brake light = Red
always on = blue

Has anyone done this? Any tips?

I'm also planning to run that bundle of wires up into the top box so that it may have an LED brake light strip, but that's in the future.
One step at a time.

[David.]

From the Haynes manual, (if correct), the wire colour code for the brake/tail and turn signal unit is as follows.

Right turn = Blue/white/black
Left turn = Blue/white/red
Ground = Brown
Brake/tail lights = Grey/yellow/black

The brake/tail lights are the same bulb (x2), the intensity changes with voltage.

[Strat Tuner]

Thank you for that.

I always get butterflies cutting into perfectly good factory wiring!

I've done this before on an FJR, and I'm sure the flashing brake light has saved me more times that I know!

Here's the unit I like.

[Strat Tuner]

The brake/tail lights are the same bulb (x2), the intensity changes with voltage.

that means no separate "always on" wire. Thanks!

[David.]

To save cutting into the wiring, how about using some double spade electrical connectors on the rear of each bulb in the tail unit.

Something like these.

[Strat Tuner]

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Wow! That reply with the videos was just terriffic! Thank you, for that one!
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Chat GPT also did not know the correct colors! (yes, I know it's colours , but not around here.)

I've been cutting wires, turning the bike on and checking to see what goes out....
so far, it reveals:

(edit to correct done days later...)

---------Useful wires to know about----------
Ground....................Brown
Left Turn..................Red/white/blue
Right Turn.................Blue / White
Brake (dim/full).........Gray / Black / White
(brightness depends on voltage, I'm told)
Power Port Rear.......Red/Green

---------Great Unknowns------------------------
Red........................???
Green / White...........???

for my purposes, I'll have to identify an "always 12V when the key is ON" wire.
I need that for things like License plate lights (sharing with the brake light sucks.)
(edit: that turns out to be the Green/Red wire that powers the rear power socket. David points that out in the following post.)

I write all this down in the hope it may help someone in the same situation some day.
Isn't that what a forum is for, after all?

[David.]

I'll have to identify an "always 12V when the key is ON" wire.

If the motorcycle is fitted with a rear onboard accessory socket or just the 2 pin plug under the seat, the red/green switched live wire can be used.

[David.]

This photo is from a 2007 R1200RTP but shows the location of the supply to what would be the rear onboard accessory socket in the top righthand corner.

[Strat Tuner]

End of the day...

I've learned more about my new ride, and I'm grateful for all the replies.
Thank You, Gentlemen.

• The onboard computer did not tolerate the flashing chip! It gave the same warning it would give if a bulb were blown.

• The H7 LED replacement bulbs were clearly NOT a replacement for the incandescent bulbs the bike has. (Amazon's "does this fit my vehicle" failed me in this case.)

• I soldered in all the wires needed to drive the stop/turn signal light bar I plan to add just above the license plate.

• The flasher unit will drive that LED strip without interfering with the extant incandescent stuff the bike has. (I hope).

The strip for brake and turn signals I like best looks like the photos below. It has yellow turn signals and RED brake lights. I'm just not willing (yet) to drill into the top box. The TWO strips I plan to use will fit on a plastic backing I will cut from a Rubbermaid brand waste basket. That plastic is flat, durable, and easy to cut to just about any shape you want it to be. The backing will support the two light bars and have holes to anchor to the license plate screws.

Routing the wiring from under the back seat to the light bars will not be that difficult, and that maybe be the only hole I drill completely out of view.

It would be UN WISE to drive in California stop and go freeway traffic without a good flashing brake light!
More posts and pictures later.

[Strat Tuner]

If the motorcycle is fitted with a rear onboard accessory socket or just the 2 pin plug under the seat, the red/green switched live wire can be used.

There's a 12V socket on the left fairing. It's outside the bike where I can reach it. (nice touch) I presume it's there to plug into if you have heated riding gear. I plugged in an item that shows voltage and surfaces two USB ports. I was disappointed to see that the Voltage display STAYED ON even when the bike key was OFF.

There is another one of these under my seat. Is that what you meant?

I will test that to see if it will go OFF when the key is OFF.

[David.]

The H7 LED replacement bulbs were clearly NOT a replacement for the incandescent bulbs the bike has.

[David.]

There is another one of these under my seat. Is that what you meant?

I will test that to see if it will go OFF when the key is OFF.

Yes, just use the +ve red/green as a 12V switched live. I've used this to supply an Autocom & GPS, it shuts down after a short period of time. The -ve is bolted to the battery.

I believe that, if a load is "plugged in" across the +ve and -ve at the socket, it'll stay live until the load is removed.

[Sherseni]

I've done a similar LED swap on my bike, and I’d recommend double-checking the resistor ratings to make sure they’re not going to overheat the system. Your color choices for wiring look good, but I’d still verify them with your bike’s wiring diagram since different models can have some variations. Putting the flash chip and resistors under the seat is a solid idea, just keep airflow in mind so they don’t get too hot. When you run wires to the top box for the brake light strip later, leave a little slack in the wire just in case you need to make any adjustments down the road.

[Strat Tuner]

Yes, just use the +ve red/green as a 12V switched live. I've used this to supply an Autocom & GPS, it shuts down after a short period of time. The -ve is bolted to the battery.

I believe that, if a load is "plugged in" across the +ve and -ve at the socket, it'll stay live until the load is removed.

I think I can find that thing again, but like Forrest Gump said "I am NOT a smart man"!
It should have two wires that feed it: one is "hot" and one is "GROUND". Brown will be "Ground", so the other must be "HOT".

The "Hot" of that set is ON all the time or only when the key is turned on?

I'm not familiar with what "VE+" is or "VE-" are... plus and minus I get, sort of , but what is "VE"?

Re-reading I must also admit I don't understand this sentence at all...

I believe that, if a load is "plugged in" across the +ve and -ve at the socket, it'll stay live until the load is removed.

What I need to find is a wire that is "hot" ONLY when the key is on NO MATTER WHAT.

I'm familiar with what a RELAY does, but even that requires access to a wire that is HOT ONLY WHEN THE KEY IS ON.

... high learning curve here... Thank you for your patience.

[Strat Tuner]

I've done a similar LED swap on my bike, and I’d recommend double-checking the resistor ratings to make sure they’re not going to overheat the system. Your color choices for wiring look good, but I’d still verify them with your bike’s wiring diagram since different models can have some variations. Putting the flash chip and resistors under the seat is a solid idea, just keep airflow in mind so they don’t get too hot. When you run wires to the top box for the brake light strip later, leave a little slack in the wire just in case you need to make any adjustments down the road.

Resistors: I'm ordering all "CANBUS" compatible LED bulbs, so I hope to use NO resistors.

Wiring Diagram: I'm flattered you think I can read a wiring diagram.

The flasher chip connects to BROWN (ground) and the hot brake light wire. I'm worried the CANBUS will sense that and complain.
I'm siphoning off power there to run the LED light bar on the top box.
I'll also need to siphon from R turn signal and L turn signal for the LED light bar. Lots of places where CANBUS could object!

My plan "B" is to have all incandescents replaced with LED. That would be a victory.

IF I can't get the flasher chip and aux LED brake light to work then that's just too bad.

I've considered putting black electrical tape over the very spot on the LED where the CANBUS makes "bulb" complaints, but that offends my sense right and wrong!